In a flurry of expansion between 1990 and 2005, the national vineyard area rose from under 5000ha to more than 21,000ha. The ranks of wine producers exploded from 131 to 516.
Today, many of those wineries are celebrating their 20th and 30th anniversaries. When Dog Point Vineyard released its first wines in 2004, expectations were high. The founders – landowner/viticulturist Ivan Sutherland and winemaker James Healy – had for many years been senior members of the Cloudy Bay team.
To celebrate its 20th, Dog Point presented “vertical” (multi-vintage) tastings of its four wines: sauvignon blanc, Section 94 (barrel-aged sauvignon blanc), chardonnay and pinot noir. If you need proof that cellaring Marlborough’s finest wines is a good idea, here it is.
Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2024 (★★★★★, 13.5% alc/vol, $27-$30) is aromatic and full-bodied, with deep, vigorous, passionfruit/lime flavours, crisp, dry and sustained. Currently delicious, the 2014 vintage is more relaxed than the 2024, but still lively. Bottle-aged notes add complexity.
And the debut 2004? At more than 20 years old, it is light green/gold, fleshy, rich and rounded, with hints of toast and honey. A startling revelation of the longevity of skilfully crafted Marlborough sauvignon blanc, it’s certainly ready to roll, but there’s no rush.
Dog Point Vineyard Section 94 2019 (★★★★★, 14% alc/vol, $40-$50) is drinking well now. Generous, ripe-fruit flavours are gently seasoned with biscuity oak. Currently outstanding, the 2014 vintage has notable vigour, deep, tropical-fruit flavours and bottle-aged complexity. A wine to ponder over, the light gold 2007 is a delight to drink – still very alive, with layers of flavour and a powerful finish.
Still very youthful, Dog Point Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 (★★★★★, 13% alc/vol, $46-$50) is a distinctly cool-climate style, with intense, peachy, slightly mealy and biscuity flavours, good acid spine and a tightly structured finish. Weighty, rich and toasty, the 2014 is probably in full stride, while the bright green/gold, slightly honeyed 2009 vintage, although still drinking well at 15 years old, is slightly past its best.
Fragrant and full-bodied, Dog Point Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 (★★★★★, 13.5% alc/vol, $47-$55) has impressive depth, complexity and harmony. The classy, sturdy, savoury and concentrated 2014 is a drink-now or cellaring proposition, while the 2008 is probably at its peak – multi-faceted, with a lovely array of plum, berry, spice, liquorice and nut flavours.
Wine of the Week
Rohe Blind River Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2024 ★★★★★
This instantly attractive wine is full-bodied, with deep, vibrant, tropical-fruit flavours, a slightly salty streak, and a crisp, finely balanced, lasting finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $22-$25
