Once popular for drag racing, the Gimblett Gravels were long avoided by farmers - now its stony soils are a considered crucial advantage for cab-savs and syrahs. Photo / Getty Images
Once popular for drag racing, the Gimblett Gravels were long avoided by farmers - now its stony soils are a considered crucial advantage for cab-savs and syrahs. Photo / Getty Images
On the western fringe of Hastings, the arid Gimblett Gravels area was once the least productive in Hawke’s Bay. Popular for drag racing, the former riverbed was long avoided by farmers, until its warm temperatures and low-fertility, free-draining stony soils were recognised as a crucial advantage in coaxing late-ripening red-winegrape varieties like cabernet sauvignon and syrah to full maturity on the vines.
Stonecroft, in the Gimblett Gravels, reported the weather in 2022 was “unsettled over the growing season, with a lot of rain events …” These reds, selected by Australian wine auctioneer Andrew Caillard as part of a promotional dozen, reveal that excellent wines still emerged from the Gimblett Gravels in what many producers described as a “difficult” and “tricky” vintage.
Here, the focus is on the most affordable wines, retailing in the $18 to $33 category.
Esk Valley Artisanal Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2022
★★★★
Priced right, this blend of malbec (39%), cabernet sauvignon (32%) and merlot (29%) was matured in French oak casks. Deeply coloured, it is mouthfilling, vibrant, savoury and smooth, with generous, ripe, plummy, distinctly spicy flavours and refined tannins. It’s already enjoyable. (13.5% alc/vol) $25
Mills Reef Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2022
Still unfolding, this barrel-aged red is full-coloured and mouthfilling, with good concentration of plum, red berry and spice flavours gently seasoned with toasty oak. A youthful, vigorous red, it should be at its best 2027+. (13.5% alc/vol) $25
Mission Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2022
★★★★
This estate-grown red was harvested from 20-year-old vines and aged for a year in French oak barrels. Full-bodied and savoury, it has strong, youthful, red berry and spice flavours and a well-rounded finish. A nutty oak influence adds good complexity. (13.5% alc/vol) $30
Stonecroft Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Serine Syrah 2022
★★★★
Certified organic, this lively red is designed as a serious, age-worthy wine that is also approachable young. Bright ruby, it is fresh and medium-bodied, with vigorous, plummy, spicy, gently oaked flavours, very good depth and complexity, and a finely poised, smooth finish. (12.5% alc/vol) $33
Wine of the Week
Villa Maria Cellar Selection Hawke’s Bay Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
Priced sharply, this youthful, merlot-based red (82%) was grown in the Gimblett Gravels and matured for more than a year in French and American oak casks. Full-coloured, it is mouthfilling, with very good depth of plum and spice flavours. It has hints of blackcurrants and herbs, fresh acidity and considerable complexity. (13% alc/vol) $18
