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Home / Hawkes Bay Today

Mystery of the dress reformers

By Roger Moroney
Hawkes Bay Today·
10 Dec, 2016 11:00 PM4 mins to read

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MYSTERY PHOTO: The six young "dress reformers" taken by a Waipawa-based photographer and published in 1906 which researchers are hoping to find out more about. Photo supplied

MYSTERY PHOTO: The six young "dress reformers" taken by a Waipawa-based photographer and published in 1906 which researchers are hoping to find out more about. Photo supplied

The photo is of six women.

Six young Maori women and the year is around 1906 - and the three of them who are sitting down appear to be seated on something covered with sheep fleeces.

And perhaps the great hinged doors behind them are a shearing shed...somewhere.
Possibly somewhere in
Central Hawke's Bay - given the photograph bears the credit on the back of 'William Golder, Waipawa'.

But what takes the attention is the manner in which the six women are dressed.

The caption which appeared with it when it was published in the February 14, 1906 edition of The Weekly Press simply stated they were "Maori dress reformers".

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And unfortunately, for Greenstone TV researcher Jane Dowell, that was pretty well it.

Which is not too helpful in her pursuit of putting names to faces and names to locations as she embarks on researching for a planned six-part series, to air on Maori TV next September, titled Artefact.

The publishing reference notes for the photograph came from the Christchurch City Libraries, but the information is sparse.

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"The only other information on the photograph is the name 'William Golder, Waipawa' - I am assuming he took the photograph," Ms Dowell said.

She said The Weekly Press would publish between eight to 10 pages of photographs of people and events from around New Zealand and the world.

"But often did not credit them or have any accompanying text."

The one thing achivists do know is that the photograph illustrates the term of "dress reformers" well.

Like many women who had tired of the more restrictive elements of womens' clothing, like corsets and bustles, they went down a more comfortable path - and veered more toward what their menfolk were wearing.

Some described it as "rational dress".

Jackets, blouses, ties and knee-length baggy trousers known during those times as 'knickerbockers".

The latter, however, were for the very daring dress reformers with many still possessing sympathy for skirts.

The six young Maori ladies in the photo however were clearly confirmed dress reformers and wore their more male-influenced clothing with confidence, and pride.

Ms Dowell was keen to find out more about the women in the photograph and hoped it may possibly spark a note with some of their descendants today.

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"To hear the story behind it."

In terms of the photographer, William Golder, who never married, was born in Masterton in 1883 and made a career out of being a commercial photographer who resided in Foxton and Waipawa.

He died in Hamilton in 1944.

The story of the dress reformers will be one a many pieces to the planned six-part series.
"It takes us on time travelling, globetrotting adventures inspired by the lives of artefacts famous and obscure," Ms Dowell said.

"With Dame Professor Anne Salmond as our guide, Artefact will explore themes that inspire a sense of wonder about the many small and big events that have shaped Aotearoa New Zealand."

She said the the kaupapa of the series was to examine our cross-cultural history of adventure and innovation.

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"As well as the literal journeys of artefacts, from person to person and place to place, we are examining moments in time when different worlds collide - for better or for worse."

She said the series would also contain significant contemporary content.

"These taonga are still relevant and by sharing their stories Artefact invites us to consider anew, our rich and complex shared history."

And part of that unique history is the way people dressed - especially the way six young women chose to dress, and accordingly pose.

Are they from the Central Hawke's Bay region, where their photographer was living in the early 1900s?

And does the photo ring a bell with anyone in terms of who they were?

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The Greenstone TV folks would be keen to hear from anyone with any knowledge of these remarkable 'dress reformers' and Ms Dowell can be contacted on 09 630 7333.

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