In Hawke's Bay he visited the vineyards of Mr H S Tiffen in Taradale, where Bragato noted a large area of wine and brandy grapes, and "a wine-making plant of the most improved type."
"The Mission Fathers [then at Meeanee] are deriving a revenue from the sale of an excellent sweet wine." Its wine, Bragato stated, was "most exquisite" and reminded him of "the liqueur wine produced in the Greek Archipelago Islands".
It was also noted at Havelock were "the finest varieties of dessert grapes', and "an excellent wine, resembling Madeira, is made there."
The North Island vineyards, noted Bragato, "contain the best varieties of grapes yet seen in New Zealand".
New Zealand would invite Bragato back in 1901, and in 1902 the government stole him from the Aussies, offering him the newly created position of viticulturist and head of the Viticultural Division with the Department of Agriculture, which was based at Te Kauwhata in the Waikato, where a viticulture research station was established.
Bragato's New Zealand tour after starting his new job saw him once again visit Hawke's Bay, where he was convinced that if winegrowers here followed his advice "this industry will in time assume great proportions". He would be a frequent visitor to Hawke's Bay over the next six years.
It was noted by Bragato that Hawke's Bay had the largest vineyards in the colony.
"The people here evidently mean business and I know of no cellars in New Zealand superior to those of Greenmeadows, Te Mata and Frimley."
Bragato said wine produced in Hawke's Bay "should secure a firm hold on the market".
The establishment of an experimental farm, he said, "somewhere at Havelock … would give a great impetus to the wine growing industry in Hawke's Bay".
A significant amount of interest was paid here to Bragato, the man with the distinctive moustache and lingering European accent. Newspapers were all too willing to print anything that was imparted by him – especially when he believed wine produced in Hawke's Bay and parts of Auckland were equal or superior to that of Australian wines.
The Te Mata land to become the Arataki government experimental farm was purchased in August 1903 and stated as 95 acres (38ha) bought from Bernard Chambers. It was somewhat of triumph for Hawke's Bay when it was announced, and 20,000 cuttings of the Californian disease (phylloxera) resistant stock vine arrived in Hastings.
It was planned to supply cuttings and rooted vines to all parts of New Zealand and Australia from Arataki.
Buildings, including accommodation for staff were established at Arataki during 1904.
Lectures were given by Bragato all over New Zealand on the virtues of his beloved viticulture industry and he prophesied one day New Zealand wine would be exported to Australia, Canada, and London. (Bragato undoubtedly would be well pleased at the number of countries that New Zealand now exports to.)
Wine, however, was not an overly popular drink in New Zealand at this time, and Bragato's task was to evangelise its production and consumption by public lectures, but in doing so he would run afoul of the prohibition movement.
Reportedly hearing that Bragato in March 1908 had devoted "25 out of 30 minutes of his address to an attack on the prohibition movement", the Reverend F W Isitt, who was reported as "a paid apostle of the prohibition movement", was not impressed.
As a government employee, Reverend Isitt believed Bragato should not be saying such things, and the government should stop him from doing so. (Mentions of "wine being good for the people" and believing the government should reduce taxes so wine could be sold at "popular prices" also made Bragato unpopular with the prohibition agitators.)
Bragato's reply to the prohibitionists went: "Nevertheless, the prohibitionists want the government to have teetotalism lessons taught in the schools by teachers who are public servants."
He was retrenched by the government in 1909 during a cost-cutting exercise along with the chief poultry expert, fruit canning expert, fibre expert, pomologist (fruit cultivator) and 1000 other public servants. The temperance movement against alcohol was gaining momentum at this time.
Without a job, he opened a wine and spirit shop in Auckland but would emigrate to Canada in early 1913 to pursue viticulture there.
Sadly, for many who knew him well in New Zealand, he took his own life in a hotel room in Vancouver in December 1913.
Percy Berry, founder of Arataki Honey, purchased land in 1944 that was once part of the Arataki Government experimental farm, which had been expanded to horticulture.
Percy's family lived in what would probably have been the assistant manager's house behind the present office block of Arataki Honey. There were staff quarters about where the Arataki shop is today.
Bragato's influence on the New Zealand wine industry was profound – some give him the title of the Father of New Zealand wine industry. His encouraging words made more than 110 years ago that New Zealand – in particular Hawke's Bay - would one day compete on the world stage with its quality wine, has of course, come to fruition.
• Michael Fowler (mfhistory@gmail.com) is a contract researcher and commercial business writer of Hawke's Bay history. Follow him on facebook.com/michaelfowlerhistory
