Villa Maria produces a vast array of wines under its Private Bin (in reality huge volume), Cellar Selection, Earth Garden (organic), Reserve and Single Vineyard labels. Its quartet of “icon” wines – although not labelled as such – are promoted as “flagship wines, made only when exceptionally rare conditions produce truly outstanding wines”.
These are classy, high-priced, memorable wines, full of personality.
Villa Maria Keltern Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2022
★★★★★
This arresting wine springs from an inland site, east of Maraekakaho, cooled by air currents flowing from ranges to the west. Grown in silt loam soils over red metals, it was hand-harvested, fermented with “wild” (indigenous) yeasts, and matured for more than a year in French oak barriques (55% new). It is mouthfilling, rich and savoury. Notably complex, it has deep, ripe, stonefruit flavours that are enriched with nutty oak, lively acidity, and a long, very harmonious finish. Already highly approachable, it should break into full stride mid-2025+. (13.5% alc/vol) $90
Villa Maria Woven Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023
★★★★★
Grown in a vineyard surrounding Villa Maria’s Marlborough winery at Fairhall, in the Wairau Valley, this youthful wine was fermented and aged in French oak barrels (mostly seasoned). It is weighty, rich and lingering. Full-bodied and vibrant, it has concentrated, tropical fruit flavours, gently overlaid with oak, excellent vibrancy and complexity, and a dry, finely textured finish. (14% alc/vol) $60
Villa Maria Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Ngakirikiri 2021
★★★★★
Ngakirikiri (“the gravel”) refers to the stony soils defining the Gimblett Gravels. The company’s pinnacle Bordeaux-style red, from vines planted mostly in 1998-2000, it is a blend of cabernet sauvignon (93%) and merlot (7%), matured for 18 months in French oak barriques (44% new). It has dark, youthful, purple-flushed colour. A powerful yet approachable red, it is fragrant, savoury and complex. It has deep, ripe, blackcurrant, red berry and spice flavours, a hint of dark chocolate, and good tannin backbone. Full of potential, it’s well worth cellaring for seven to 20 years. (14.5% alc/vol) $150
Wine of the week
Villa Maria Attorney Marlborough Pinot Noir 2021
This seductive, silky-textured red was hand-picked from vines planted in 2002 on a north-facing block in the Southern Valleys which has deep clay soils. Matured for 15 months in French oak casks (32% new), it is a terrific wine. Deep, bright ruby, with a fragrant, very savoury bouquet, it is mouthfilling and energetic, with rich cherry, plum, spice and nut flavours, layered and finely textured, and good tannin backbone. Certified organic, it’s well worth cellaring. (14% alc/vol) $120
