The Chave family have been growing grapes in the Rhône Valley since 1481. (Photo / Getty Images)
The Chave family have been growing grapes in the Rhône Valley since 1481. (Photo / Getty Images)
The Chave family has been growing grapes on the spectacular, part-granite hill of Hermitage, in France’s northern Rhône Valley, since 1481. The 2020 and 2021 vintages of their famous, syrah-based red, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage, are currently sold here at $400 to $500-plus a bottle.
So, what happens if youline up six older Chave Hermitages, from the 2005 to 2015 vintages, alongside six of Hawke’s Bay’s and Waiheke Island’s top syrahs, from 2006 to 2014, and taste them “blind” (labels hidden)?
My favourite was Chave Hermitage 2009 – headily perfumed and awash with red berry, spice, liquorice and dark chocolate flavours – followed by Chave’s 2013 and 2015 vintages. But the illustrious French reds are far higher priced, and they enjoy a head start of about five centuries.
Cable Bay Reserve Waiheke Island Syrah 2010
★★★★★
This distinguished red is still full of youthful vigour. Richly coloured, it is invitingly scented and sturdy, with intense ripe, almost lush flavours of blackcurrants, liquorice, spices and nuts. $85 (Since its 2010 release, the price has shot up to around $360.)
When it was released, Craggy Range viewed this red as its greatest syrah to date. It’s hard to argue, because it’s now showing superb density, vigour, elegance and length. $90
La Collina Syrah 2013
★★★★★
La Collina (“the hill”) is grown at Bilancia’s steep site on Roys Hill, overlooking the Gimblett Gravels, Hawke’s Bay. Dark, fragrant and powerful, it is an elegant, concentrated and harmonious red, notably savoury and complex, with good tannin backbone. $120
Obsidian Reserve Waiheke Island Syrah 2014
★★★★★
Weighty and supple, this is a dark, sweet-fruited and nutty, very generous red, with excellent flavour complexity and harmony. Rich and refined, it’s probably at its peak. $63
Grown in the Bullnose Vineyard, this graceful Hawke’s Bay red has deep, still moderately youthful colour. Finely structured, it has strong plum and black pepper flavours, with a well-spiced finish. $44
Trinity Hill Homage Syrah 2006
★★★★★
This vigorous, dark, Gimblett Gravels red is now 18 years old. From ultra low-cropped vines, it is highly fragrant, with firm blackcurrant, plum and black pepper flavours, revealing notable vigour and depth. $120
Wine of the week
Trinity Hill The Trinity 2021
★★★★
The second release of this Hawke’s Bay red – identified on the back label as Lot 2 – is a blend of mostly merlot and cabernet franc. Mouthfilling, it has generous, well-ripened, dark berry, plum and spice flavours, and is attractively vibrant and supple. (13.5% alc/vol) $19-$25
