The 2022 growing season was difficult in Hawke’s Bay. Stonecroft experienced “a lot of rain events”; Smith & Sheth reported a “cooler, damp” vintage; and Collaboration predicted “more elegant, restrained wines than is typical”. That early forecast was right. A chardonnay collection from 2022, promoted by Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers, reveals the wines, now on shelves, are typically less rich than those from the favourable 2019-2021 vintages, but still full of interest.
Askerne Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2022
★★★★
Already drinking well, this is an estate-grown, hand-harvested, barrel-fermented wine. Full-bodied, it has strong, peachy, biscuity flavours, balanced acidity, a hint of butterscotch and a well-rounded finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $23-$27
Bilancia Kaikora Vineyard Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2022
★★★★★
This is one of the best wines yet from Central Hawke’s Bay. Full-bodied, it has deep, vibrant, citrusy, peachy, mealy flavours, finely integrated oak, good acid spine and excellent vigour, poise and length. (13% alc/vol) $50-$58
Church Road Grand Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2022
★★★★½
A characterful wine that is mouthfilling, with generous, ripe fruit flavours. Strongly seasoned with toasty oak, it is a bold, “upfront” style and has good cellaring potential. (13% alc/vol) $35-$45
Craggy Range Kidnappers Vineyard Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2022
★★★★
Grown near the coast at Te Awanga, this moderately complex wine was handled in tanks and barrels. Medium-to-full-bodied, it has vibrant, citrusy, peachy fruit flavours to the fore, a light seasoning of biscuity oak, appetising acidity and a lengthy finish. (12.5% alc/vol) $27-$33
Elephant Hill Sea Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2022
★★★★½
Estate-grown and hand-picked at Te Awanga, this is a youthful, fresh and vigorous wine. It has vibrant, peachy, citrusy flavours, subtle, biscuity, toasty oak adding complexity, lively acidity and a lingering finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $65 (Oct/Nov release).
Paritua Willow Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2022
★★★★★
This refined, savoury, youthful wine was grown in the Bridge Pā Triangle. Fragrant and full-bodied, with rich, citrusy, peachy flavours, gently seasoned with biscuity oak and lively acidity, it shows excellent vigour, delicacy and depth. (13% alc/vol) $38-$40
Squawking Magpie Terraces & Gravels Chardonnay 2022
★★★★½
This single-vineyard wine is mouthfilling and creamy, with rich, peachy, slightly buttery flavours, seasoned with oak, a hint of butterscotch, balanced acidity and very good complexity and harmony. (14% alc/vol) $30-$35
Wine of the week
Smith & Sheth Cru Heretaunga Chardonnay 2022
★★★★★
Already delicious, this wine was grown at Bridge Pā and Mangatahi. Mouthfilling, sweet-fruited and savoury, it has deep, vibrant, peachy, mealy flavours, buttery and toasty notes adding complexity, lively acidity and a sustained, harmonious finish. A top buy. (13% alc/vol) $40 (Oct/Nov release)
