Hong Kong - Glittering gateway

CRAIG STEPHEN Hong Kong tends to act as a gateway for visitors either stopping off on their way to Europe or Australasia, and those heading into mainland China.
But for those who whisk through the former British colony, there is much to miss. Hong Kong, simply put, is a region of vivid contrasts: a land where east meets west, where high-rise claustraphobic living mingles with hilly ranges and relatively open spaces.
For most people, their first stop is Hong Kong Island. Here, western capitalism is in full force. There are the financial giants, a vast array of shopping malls with exclusive stores and the traditional fast-food chains.
After tiring quickly of the malls, I ventured into Hong Kong's gardens but, with space so tight, these tend to be concrete slabs with some greenery hanging from above.
Victoria Peak, and with it, the small cable car that looks almost identical to Wellington's (but is cheaper) is one of the essential activities. However, you have to be sharp to get up there as, on the rare, cloud/ smog-free days, people flock to the terminus to get a panoramic view of the island and beyond.
Not too far from the city centre are places such as Kennedy Town where traditional Chinese culture blooms and the British influence is largely muted. Restaurant menus posted on the window are written entirely in Chinese and many people serving in shops, eateries, on bus and trams do not have a grasp of English, one of the region's two official languages. Here, finger-pointing and animation are needed to get by so that you don't end up with one of the less-savoury ingredients in the local diet.
Across the water lies Kowloon, a bustling area where many people find electrical bargains although Hong Kong is not quite as cheap as I was led to believe. There's a reasonable walk through Kowloon's frenetic streets, populated by pedlars, hawking three-piece suits and dodgy Rolexes, to the most arresting part of the district, Temple Street.
It is well-known that the Chinese have catholic tastes when it comes to food and vegetarians are well-advised to steel their broccoli-strengthened stomachs before entering. Every animal - and every part of it - seem to find its way into Hong Kong's market stalls and shops: flat ducks, cattle heads, parts of animals that would have thought was only digested on TV challenge shows; and on Sheng Wuan, on Hong Kong Island, shops trade in various dried foods - shark fins being the most contentious.
My visit was a stop-off on my way to New Zealand from the UK. The flight route meant a two-week stay in the region. That was enough time for a thorough search of the two main population and economic centres, and beyond. A particularly enticing day trip was to Lantau, a low-population (by Hong Kong standards) island that has one of the region's centrepieces: the aptly-named Big Buddha. It's perched on top of a mountain and there's a fair bus ride and a lot of steps to get to it. But this magnificent statue and the stunning views of the island make for an invaluable trip.
Back in the central district of Hong Kong Island, I discover a fascinating sight. Sitting around a minute square and the nearby vicinity are hundreds of housemaids from the Philippines, Malaysia and other South-east Asian countries, enjoying their Sunday day off, sitting in little groups with substantial picnics, card games and incessant chat.
This trip coincided with the Chinese New Year, which meant lots of colourful displays, parades and fireworks and a major soccer tournament, the Carlsberg Cup. The organisers would have us believe this is a prized competition but only the national side and Brazil were competing. Tickets are far from cheap and the least expensive ones sell out quickly.
But my Scottish nous when it comes to money pays off: I ask a gentleman selling his wife's ticket how much he will sell it for. He doesn't budge but with two minutes until kick off grudgingly accepts half of the $HK800 he bought it for. The cup, rather unsurprisingly, heads to Rio, as the Ronaldo-less stars trounce their hapless hosts 7-1.
For the three days New Year is celebrated, the region is comatose, scuppering my aim of a few days in Macau, but I eventually make it over for a day trip. It turns out that this is more than enough time for a former Portuguese colony that, like its neighbour, is now an autonomous region within China.
That European connection is the most interesting aspect of an area that is nothing more than a tiny peninsula and two equally small islands.
If you prefer culture to casinos, this is ideal: there are plenty of century-old architecture such as the Sa Paolo cathedral, now effectively a ruin, and a fortress, Fortaleza do Monte, that is pretty much intact with cannons facing down at the city.