Editorial: FAWC!'s soaring culinary clout

Al Brown puts the soul back in food, writes Mark Story. Photo / File

The Summer FAWC! buzz has hit the province - as have the celeb foodies.

My family made a beeline to the Hawke's Bay Farmers' Market Sunday gone and noticed a discernible lift in the already stellar vibe at this shire-like institution.

Chef Al Brown, film crews and FAWC! groupies descended on the sun-kissed market much to the delight of my daughters, the eldest of which is spending more time in the kitchen trying to emulate Brown's efforts from the Hunger for the Wild TV series.

Fair to say he's a family favourite. Quick with a joke, fishing rod in hand and a belly - proof of a studious and fulsome product knowledge. Who trusts a svelte chef anyway?

Since he hit the TV scene he's struck a culinary chord with anyone who enjoys the thrum of the wild and thrust of the kitchen.

He's a cook who knows what not to do with food.

His quote from Go Fish on the move to a more "science-lab style cooking", had me hooked. "I find most of this food overhandled, tortured and completely soulless - small, miserable portions of foams, spheres and smears. Deconstructed food that ends up cold, alone and lifeless".

Amen to this soul-shine.

Food is of course a broad church, and molecular gastronomy finds favour with many. But from where I'm sitting the "don't play with your food" message is as levelling as it is overdue.

Kudos to the FAWC! team. This is the calibre of billing the growing event now has the clout to woo.