Roil and Lockett seal The Deal

I AM THE SEA: A model, wearing a creation by Wellington-based anti-fashion designer Dave Roil, happily wades into the sea at Kaiti Beach for this picture shot by Gisborne photographer Tink Lockett. A variation of this image is one of 14 large-scale prints on silk that will feature in The Deal. Picture by Tink Lockett

In one of Gisborne photographer Tink Lockett’s large-scale silk prints, a model dressed in a creation by anti-fashion designer Dave Roil poses before a desolate, sun-baked service station.

The setting could be somewhere around Barstow, California, on the edge of the desert. It could be a last-chance fuel stop on the road to Paris, Texas. In fact, the location is Allied Petroleum on Gisborne’s Aerodrome Road. The photographic silk hanging is one of 14 fine art prints that will complement Roil’s work in a collaborative project called The Deal.

Shot in an editorial light, the sophistication and bold visual language that imbues Lockett’s image with fresh perspective is all the more striking for the forget-everything-you-thought-you-knew savoir-faire in Roil’s hand-sewn design.

Lockett’s concept for the collaboration with Roil came about while she explored ways to use lighting and studio equipment in a Wellington studio. Roil was among designers Lockett had contacted for a studio shoot. Three sets of photographs that came out of that experience later featured in various publications. Roil landed his first-ever magazine cover when Marquis art book ran several of Lockett’s pictures.

“When I met Dave we talked about his story,” says Lockett.

“I said as a joke, ‘I’ll get us an exhibition in Gisborne’. I’d never done anything like this before.”

Due to the Covid pandemic, The Deal was three years in the making — a mixed blessing for the Gisborne photographer.

“That three years gave me the space to make contacts and spark ideas so it worked out well to have that time. Over that three years I got Dave’s designs sent here, and modelled and photographed them.

“I created specific imagery from garments Dave has made for this project. The 14 prints feature local people as models and locations such as Ulverstone and Tītīrangi/Kaiti Hill. Each of these images will be printed on silk to be hung as large-scale works at the museum during the show.”

Other settings include Kaiti Beach, an empty, derelict swimming pool, and country homes.

No stranger to knocking on doors to ask if she could take pictures outside, Lockett was invited indoors at one home to look at a winding staircase. The elegance of the architectural feature appealed to the photographer.

“The owner said, ‘I knew you’d like it’. I thought it was too good not to use so I asked if I could shoot models in Dave’s designs there for the exhibition.”

After dabbling with silks Lockett felt the fabric would tie in well with the fashion show.

“Silk makes the prints softer and slightly translucent. The images aren’t as hard as they might appear on paper, and everything you see on social media is heightened. Silk is non-static.”

She also decided to go large in her prints.

“The main gallery is pretty big so I thought ‘go for gold’. We live on our phones and laptops — I thought ‘I’m not going to print something that size’. Scale is an engagement factor, it has more impact. You can stand back and look at the prints.

“For models I got everyday people on board, not professional models but friends, basically, and let them find their own shapes. On the night, I’m including those models. Other models are from mental health advocacy charity Hear4U and from Frocks on Friday.”

Behind the scenes for the show is Ana Sidney in the essential role of make-up artist.

Lockett would also like to thank the Gisborne District Council and Creative Communities for funding and catering sponsors, Gillies Electrical.

The Deal, a collaborative project between anti-fashion designer Dave Roil and Gisborne photographer Tink Lockett, opens at 6.30pm tomorrow at Tairāwhiti Museum. Roil’s outfits and Lockett’s prints will remain on display in the main gallery until June 18.