Cead Mile Failte to Ireland

Galway’s ‘Long Walk’ on the banks of the Corrib River, originally part of the harbour where Spanish traders would moor their ships in the Middle Ages. Even today you enter the Long Walk through the Spanish Arch, part of what remains of the medieval city walls built in 1584.

IF YOU ever go across the sea to Ireland you will hear these words many times “Cead Mile Failte”. A hundred thousand welcomes greets visitors across Ireland.

In Galway it has added significance with the city recently voted the “World’s Friendliest City” by UK Travel and Leisure magazine, as part of their annual “World’s Best Awards” based on user experience.

Galway city, with a population of 75,000, is on the famed “Wild Atlantic Way”, the scenic driving route that stretches 1500 miles along the Western Irish coastline.

Galway is known as the “City of the Tribes”. The Tribes of Galway were 14 merchant families who dominated the political, commercial, and social life of the city between the 13th and 16th centuries. They were the families of Athy, Blake, Bodkin, Browne, D’Arcy, Deane, Ffont, Ffrench, Joyce, Kirwan, Lynch, Martin, Morris and Skerritt. So if one of these is your surname, you probably have links to medieval Galway.

The River Corrib dominates the city. From the lake of the same name, a series of locks and gates quickens the Corrib’s journey to a rush and a roar through the city. At the Claddagh, as Galway Bay appears in view, it tinkles quietly at low tide, as if taking a breath before entering the magic that is Galway Bay.

Swans own the Corrib river and spring sees the appearance of many downy, cloud grey cygnets navigating the shallows with protective parents ever close. A wondrous sight that stops locals and tourists alike.

The city of Galway is ever expanding but the old town is where the Irish rhyme and rhythm will be found.

Pedestrian-friendly streetsThe narrow streets are pedestrian friendly and abound with a story at every corner. Local guides with small group tours regale visitors with a history that stretches back to the 12th century.

Christopher Columbus set off from Galway on his voyage to discover America and is said to have prayed in the still-used St Nicholas Church before he left.

The Saturday morning market outside St Nicholas’ Church has been going for centuries. Once it sold hay, herrings, live hens and geese. Today, like most city markets across the world, the focus is on a wide range of locally-grown, organic produce, fresh or ready to eat as a healthy lunch. Local artisans extend the market to include quality crafts to add to the colourscape of the old town.

Buskers keep alive Irish music with harp, fiddle and accordion pounding out well- known tunes. An elegant Irish dancer joins the mix along with a Michael Buble lookalike, suit and all.

Most of the pubs offer live music almost every night, with musicians taking over a corner to play a set or two. More organised events are offered across the pub scene with a modest ticket price, but it is the small intimate, often unrehearsed sessions that have the charm and warmth of feeling you are a guest in someone’s living room.

Where the craic flowsThe old town abounds with shops for tourists as well as cafes, restaurants and countless pubs where the Guinness and the “craic” flows into the wee small hours every night.

Local food is superb with an emphasis on seasonal fare. A stone’s throw from the busy shopping area is award-winning ‘Kai Cafe’. Yes, run by a New Zealander and her Irish husband, Jess and David Murphy. We can tell you, the food is magnificent.

Jess is not the only Kiwi in Galway to make a name for herself. One time All Black, Pat Lam, is a Galway hero having coached the local Connacht Rugby Team to Pro 12 glory during our stay. Connacht were the underdogs in a competition of superstar clubs from England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales, and the win is the one and only trophy to ever come their way. The town went wild with a parade to rival the annual St Patrick’s Day festivities.

Outside the city are many charming villages such as Oughterard on the Corrib, the stopping point for those with fishing in their blood. Loch Corrib is famous for its wild brown trout and salmon fishing.

Salmon features on the menu of all cafes and restaurants, none better than the fare we tasted at Connemara Greenway Cafe in Oughterard. A must for any tourist passing through for lunch or dinner. The proprietor of the cafe even took us for a short walk around the village taking in the lake and resting fishing boats.

Into the GaeltachtAnother village we visited was Spiddal on the way to Connemara, the largest Irish-speaking or Gaeltacht region of Ireland. Spiddal abounds in Irish traditions, crafts and music events, including the annual races of traditional sailing boats, the Galway Hookers.

Last year the event was cancelled due to bad weather. This year, the superb weather meant little wind and the races were again cancelled. However, they made a magnificent sight meandering across Galway Bay.

It wouldn’t be a story about Ireland without mention of the weather. The three weeks spent in Galway was possibly summer for this year. Glorious daily sunshine and high temperatures saw the locals cram the local beaches and congregate outside in the evenings enjoying the typically long twilight. Darkness descended about 10.30pm or later.

“Sure you brought the weather with you from New Zealand,” was said to us more than once.

“And don’t take it with you when you leave!”

Sadly, we seem to have done just that. An Irish summer can be two days, two weeks or sometimes never turn up at all. It appears to have rained every day since we left.

The sometimes fickle weather does not dull the friendliness and charm of this “cultural heart” of Ireland, and the warmth and spirit of the people of the ancient city they call home. We didn’t want to leave.