AUTUMN IN ZURICH

WALKWAYS: While away some time exploring the charming lanes in Zurich. Picture supplied

It felt so good to back be in Zurich.

Liberated from the long shadow of Covid-19, I had made my way to the Swiss financial capital to start a week-long romp through Switzerland and Northern Italy with Globus and their new “Alps out Loud” escorted tour.

Choice Touring by Globus is a recent innovation that offers travellers a new touring style, promising all the wonders of a perfectly planned tour but with an extra level of freedom and flexibility. Not only does this add a more mix-and-match customised dimension to guided group touring, but the excursions I chose to go on were more like personalised, small-group encounters. The biggest challenge was choosing which excursions suited me best — kind of like trying to pick my favourite gelato flavour.

Kicking off in Zurich, it was a decision-free start, as our friendly tour director, Mike Coulstock, led us on an illuminating 90-minute walkabout across the cobbles of this time-honoured city, before giving us plenty of free time for shopping, eating and exploration on our own. And there is so much to explore.

On a moody autumn morning I was sizing up the largest clock face in Europe, on the edge of the Limmat River. It's bigger than Big Ben. Riding the skyline, the historic tower of St Peter Church is imbued with a trusty timepiece, as are the oh-so-punctual church bells that ring across the Old Town from the four historic churches, including the mighty Grossmunster cathedral. No wonder everything runs to time in Switzerland.

In a city of water and stone bridges, a top vantage point above the twisting lanes of the Old Town is the Lindenhof. This was the site of a former Roman customs house and fourth-century fort, perched above the water. Soaking up the city vistas, this elevated park with its linden trees and giant chess sets is the perfect spot for a picnic.

The vast assortment of medieval guildhalls are central to Zurich's backstory as a powerhouse of merchants. The handsome guildhalls, with all their intricate and ornate decorative features, lend themselves to a leisurely inspection. I started at the bakers' guild before admiring the guilds of the carpenters, builders, the food and wine dealers, the textiles and spice merchants, all along Limmatquai.

In German-speaking Zurich, the street-food tradition of wurst remains wildly popular, particularly for lunch. In the Old Town, tuck into some great sausage at Wursteria by Hinz and Kunz. This part-butcher shop and part deli serves up super spicy bratwurst in a fluffy bun. So good!

As its name suggests, Cafe Conditorei 1842, on Napfgasse, is an old-school establishment of sweet indulgence. You'll struggle to find a finer array of patisserie, cakes and tarts. I could have stayed there all day. And my steaming mug of hot chocolate with whipped cream was magnificent.

Speaking of chocolate, the Lindt and Sprüngli factory has called Zurich home since 1899. Seven years in the making, Lindt Home of Chocolate was designed to complement the historic building and serve as a beacon to chocolate lovers everywhere.

While the selection of white, milk and dark chocolates is impressive, the Lindt Home of Chocolate also boasts another record — the world's largest chocolate fountain. Standing at about 9m tall, even Willy Wonka would be impressed by this show-stopper.

While in Zurich, my Globus tour also included a side trip to the Rhine Falls, a stupendous body of cascading water that enjoys top billing as Europe's biggest waterfall. If you've been to Niagara, Iguazu or Victoria Falls, the Rhine Falls might strike you as a gentle trickle in comparison, but they still serve up a wondrous sight. An array of architectural confections and daring viewpoints have been built around the falls, including some castles.

Schloss Laufen, dating back to 858AD, overlooks the thundering water. Adorning this ancient castle, a panoramic glass elevator has been installed to shoot you up high for the crowning view. Another observation deck is situated in the heart of the powerful water flow. Right in the middle of the falls, a mighty fang of rock, Mittelfelsen, has been equipped with a dramatic lookout platform, which can be reached by taking a quick boat trip across the river, before clambering up 100 steps to the viewing perch. Get amongst it!