The 27m waterfall in all its glory at Rainbow Falls in Kerikeri. Photo/Peter White
"It was twenty years ago today ..." sang Paul McCartney on the Beatles classic Sgt. Pepper , and I realised as I flew into Kerikeri that it was two decades since I last set foot in the wonderful Bay of Islands.
After three relaxing days exploring Russell, Waitangi, Paihia, Kerikeri and Urupukapuka Island, I knew what I had been missing all these years. It is easily the most laid-back, relaxing place in New Zealand, with a Fiji-like vibe but also the centre of our colonial history. I know I learned more than I imagined I would.
After picking up my car from Go Birdz Rentals (www.gobirdzrentals.co.nz), first stop was the Waitangi Treaty Grounds (www.waitangi.org.nz). The astonishingly good Museum of Waitangi opened in February this year. It is set over two floors with priceless treasures now housed in one place and an interactive education centre. The reasonably priced ticket of just $20 for NZ residents includes the museum, a guided tour of the treaty grounds and a spine-tingling cultural performance at the upper marae.
There is something quite therapeutic about the old-fashioned car ferry between Opua near Paihia and Okiato. Safely across, I had a scenic 10-minute drive to Russell, a definite gem in the Bay of Islands' crown. The population of 801 happily share their glorious waterfront locale with thousands of visitors from all over the world.
I took the excellent one-hour Russell Mini Tour, with chirpy driver Chris opening up the intriguing and dark history of New Zealand's first capital city. The fun drive takes in the famous Flagstaff Hill flagpole that Hone Heke chopped down four times to ignite the Northern War.
The view is splendid from Flagstaff Hill. I met Willy the friendly weka who greets every vehicle in the hope - unfulfilled this time - of getting a feed of bread. Unlike Willy, I didn't miss my lunch which was across the bay via the regular ferry service from Russell to Paihia.
All expectations are exceeded
Charlotte's Kitchen is located over the water at the end of the wharf pier and the food matched the top class surroundings.
Back in Russell I visited the Pompallier Mission and Printery (www.pompallier.co.nz), the 1840s headquarters of the pioneering French missionaries who set up a tannery and printing press producing hand-made bibles and hymn books in Te Reo Maori. Definitely one for the history buffs.
My day ended with an open sea boat trip to Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island, the largest in the Bay of Islands, for a memorable dining experience. An overcast sky meant I missed out on the famous sunset that visitors rave about but the warm welcome from Clinton and Ari made up for it and the food was great. The island is the only one in the Bay of Islands where camping is allowed and is pest-free, allowing the native bird population to thrive.
Kerikeri was last but not least on my all too short stay (www.kerikeri.co.nz). The charming town is a vibrant place with a renowned Sunday morning market and world-famous for the Kororipo Heritage Park. It features our nation's first trading store, the Stone Store, and beside it Kemp House, our oldest building dating back to 1822.
The tour, hosted by outstanding Heritage New Zealand guide Bill, is a fascinating insight into the founding days of colonisation, featuring the great Ngapuhi leader Hongi Hika plus generations of the Kemp family who lived in their house from 1822 until 1973.
Lunch was at the next door Honey House Café, where the friendly staff serve a cabinet of tasty home-made goodies and the best coffee I had in the Bay of Islands.
Before leaving Kerikeri there was time to explore the spectacular 27m waterfall at Rainbow Falls. It far exceeded my expectations - like everywhere I visited on my long overdue return to the Bay of Islands.
TO STAY
The Duke of Marlborough Hotel
35 The Strand, Russell 0202
09-403 7829
theduke.co.nz
The Duke, as it is affectionately known, began life in 1827. The hotel gained the first liquor licence in New Zealand, proudly displayed in a gold frame in the bar, and has survived being burnt to the ground three times. The current building dates back to 1875 and that sense of history gives the Duke its special charm. The main dining and reception areas are full of character with the old ballroom popular for wedding receptions.
A range of accommodation includes superb premier waterfront rooms offering stunning views to Paihia and Waitangi. The complimentary Wi-Fi is another plus. Staff come from all parts of the globe but share a common belief that a smile and being helpful is key to their role.
TO EAT
The Duke of Marlborough Restaurant
This multiple award-winner is a few metres from the water's edge so not surprisingly the menu is strongly influenced by the sea. The local Waikare Inlet oysters are a delicious entrée choice with the oven roasted market fish a constant favourite among diners.
"We get first choice of all the fish from the local fishermen - who are sitting just down there," said my friendly waiter, pointing to the wharf a few metres away.
My main of oven-baked hapuka fillets served with a few delicious Cloudy Bay clams in their shells, chorizo, roasted garlic, pickled baby vegetables and fennel puree was worth the trip alone. Every mouthful was a moment to savour.
But the Duke also has excellent vegetarian and gluten-free options and won the esteemed Beef and Lamb excellence award in 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2013. One glance at the slow-roasted lamb shoulder for two, served at the table beside me showed why.
The Duke also has one of the most extensive wine lists I have seen, with 113 choices, plus 30 beers, a cocktail menu and 15 single malt whiskeys.
Otehei Bay Dining
Urupukapuka Island
Phone: 09 402 8234
exploregroup.co.nz
You will struggle to find a more idyllic setting to dine than Otehei Bay. Eat indoors or relax on the beach watching a stunning sunset. The set meals are great value at $70 for two courses or $80 for three, including return ferry ticket, or choose from the snacks menu. Delicious local cuisine.
Charlotte's Kitchen
69 Marsden Rd, Paihia 0200
Phone 09-402 8296
charlotteskitchen.co.nz
This new addition to Paihia's top class eateries is a stunner. It is named after a unique character from the colonial days called Charlotte Badger, who has numerous legendary tales linked to her, and this funky place is quickly making its own reputation. I had the NZ Lamb Rump with roasted beets, pickled figs, toasted walnuts, goat's curd and watercress, which was superb.
Honey House Café
246 Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri Basin.
Phone: 09 407 9236
Honey House Cafe has a prime spot next to Kemp House beside the Kerikeri River. I loved the scrummy roast vegetable salad and the home-made sandwiches and muffins looked delicious. Great coffee and a cute bee theme throughout.
*NZME travelled with assistance from the Bay of Islands Marketing Group. See www.visitboi.co.nz for more information.
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