Jan Bilton: Hooray for summer berries (+recipes)

Buttery Blueberry Pie

Berries have an intriguing history. The ancient Romans believed that they alleviated symptoms of fevers, throat infections, kidney stones, gout, and diseases of the blood, liver and spleen. Some say that Christ's crown was made of bramble (also called blackberry). And according to early Christian legend, the Virgin Mary favoured strawberries above all other fruits.

When we think of berries we normally think raspberries, blackberries, boysenberries - fruits with a soft exterior, juicy texture, brightly coloured and with no stones or pips but with many internal seeds. However, there is a difference between the everyday use of the word and the botanical definition. In fact, these berries are clusters of tiny individual stone fruit, or drupes, set around a central core.

The strawberry is also not a berry but a member of the rose family and is the only fruit with its seeds outside. Surprisingly, grapes and avocados fall into the berry category.

But today I'm concentrating on what we normally think of as summer berries.

Raspberries: The more than 200 species of raspberries range from white to pink to raspberry-red in colour and they are prized for their intense flavour. Raspberries have been crossed with blackberries to produce loganberries.

Blackberries: Wild blackberries have the best flavour but the farmed variety are bigger and one does not have to fight the unruly, thorny branches to secure a berry. Just pick up a pack and enjoy.

Boysenberries: A boysenberry is a cross between a raspberry, a loganberry, a blackberry and an American dewberry.

Blueberries: The blueberry is a true berry with up to 65 almost invisible internal seeds.

When buying berries, select those in dry, unstained containers. The berries should be free of surface moisture as this accelerates decay. Refrigerate as soon as possible after purchase. Blackberries, raspberries and boysenberries should be arranged, unwashed in a shallow pan lined with paper towels, and washed just before use. The berries can be topped with a paper towel to absorb any additional moisture. Consume within two to three days of purchase and at room temperature for fullest flavour.

Store blueberries unwashed in the refrigerator in a rigid container covered with plastic film. They should last up to two weeks if they are freshly picked.

RECIPES

BUTTERY BLUEBERRY PIE
The butter in pastry ensures it is a winner. This recipe may be halved to serve 8 people.

Pastry: 5 cups plain flour
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp caster sugar
500g cold unsalted butter, diced
1/2 to 1 cup iced water

Filling: 1kg (8 cups) fresh or frozen blueberries
1/2 cup caster sugar
3 tbsp cornflour
finely grated rind and juice of 2 lemons

Glaze: 1 small egg, lightly beaten
1 tbsp milk
2 tbsp caster sugar

Pastry: Pulse the flour, salt, and sugar in a large processor until combined. Add the diced butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. With the motor running, add a 1/2 cup of iced water. Pulse until the dough is crumbly but holds together when squeezed. Add extra water, 1 tablespoon at a time if necessary. Do not over-mix. Halve the dough and flatten into 2 disks. Wrap tightly in plastic film. Refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour or overnight. This makes about 1.3kg of rich pastry.

Preheat oven to 200C. Lightly oil a 25cm x 35cm slice pan about 3cm deep.
Filling: Combine the blueberries, cornflour, sugar, lemon rind and juice in a large bowl.
On a floured bench, roll 1 disc of pastry to 28cm x 40cm. Line the base and sides of the slice pan with the pastry. On the floured bench, roll out a second disk to a 25cm x 35cm rectangle. Using a 5cm biscuit cutter, make about 35 rounds.

Pour the blueberry filling into the pastry-lined pan. Place the pastry rounds over the blueberries. Brush the tops with the combined egg and milk and sprinkle with the caster sugar.

Bake until the crust is golden and the juices are bubbling, about 50 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 1 hour. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Great served as is or with whipped cream or plain yoghurt. - Serves 16

BOYSENBERRY FOOL

300g boysenberries
1 tbsp honey
1 cup cream
2 tbsp plain yoghurt
extra whipped cream, optional

Puree the fruit and honey until smooth. There should be about 1 cup of puree. Reserve 3 tablespoons of puree for garnishing.

Whip the cream until stiff. Fold in the yoghurt and puree and pour into individual serving dishes. Chill well. Serve garnished with the reserved puree. - Serves 4 to 6

LAMB SALAD WITH BLACKBERRIES & AVOCADO

4 lamb steaks, about 600g
spray oil
2 tsp mixed dried herbs
freshly ground black pepper to taste
130g packet mesclun with herbs
16 large blackberries
1 large avocado, sliced
1/4 to 1/2 cup balsamic vinaigrette

Trim the lamb and snip the edges, if required, to stop it curling during cooking. Spray with the oil.

Combine the mixed herbs and black pepper and rub on to the lamb. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Return to room temperature before cooking. Barbecue, grill or pan-fry for 4-6 minutes each side, depending on thickness.

Combine the salad greens, blackberries and avocado in a bowl. Thinly slice the lamb and toss with the salad and dressing. - Serves 4

SUGAR-FREE RASPBERRY JAM

500g raspberries
1/2 cup water
8 sugar-free sweeteners
1 tbsp hot water
4 tsp powdered gelatine

Choose quality raspberries. Place in a large saucepan. Add a 1/4 cup of water and simmer, until just cooked.

Crush the sweeteners in the 1 tablespoon of hot water and add to the hot (not boiling) fruit.

Soak the gelatine in the remaining 1/4 cup of water then dissolve over hot water or in the microwave. Add to the fruit and stir gently for about 3 minutes.

Pour into small jars and apply vacuum seals and screw bands. Give the bands a half turn backwards. Stand the jars on a rack in a saucepan. Fill with enough boiling water to just cover and poach for 5 minutes. Lift out and leave to cool completely. Remove bands before storing.

- Makes 2 cups