‘There’s a finite number of people who drink high-priced wine,” observed Richard Riddiford in the 1990s. One of the original investors in Palliser Estate, one of Martinborough’s largest wineries, Riddiford was later its managing director. “We need flexibility. If you are dependent on one region, you are constrained by grape prices and the weather.”
So Palliser Estate launched a “second label”, Palliser Bay, which after a few years was replaced with the Pencarrow brand. Today, the price difference between the Palliser Estate and Pencarrow sauvignon blancs is $5, for the pinot gris, $7; for the chardonnays, $15; and for the pinot noirs, $28.
The 2023 grape-growing season in Martinborough was very wet and strong disease pressure slowed ripening. That need for flexibility can be seen in the sources for Pencarrow’s 2023 pinot gris and sauvignon blanc.
Pencarrow Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ★★★★
This punchy, strongly varietal wine was tank-fermented and matured on its yeast lees. It has good vigour and depth of tropical fruit flavours, greener, herbal notes, and a crisp, dry finish. (12.5% alc/vol) $25
Pencarrow New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ★★★★
This latest release is labelled “New Zealand”, suggesting it was blended with grapes grown outside the region. Zesty, it has passionfruit, lime and herb flavours. Fresh, dry, lively and lingering. (12.5% alc/vol) $25
Pencarrow Martinborough Chardonnay 2022 ★★★★
This estate-grown wine was fermented and matured in French oak barrels. Mouthfilling and creamy-textured, it is sweet-fruited, with generous stonefruit flavours, fresh acidity, good complexity and a smooth finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $30
Pencarrow Martinborough Pinot Gris 2022 ★★★½
This mouthfilling wine has very good depth of fresh pear, lychee and spice flavours. An easy-drinking style with a touch of sweetness, it’s ready to roll. (13% alc/vol) $25
Pencarrow Wairarapa Pinot Gris 2023 ★★★½
“Wairarapa” on the label suggests the inclusion of grapes from beyond Martinborough. Fresh and full-bodied, it has peach, pear, and spice flavours, showing very good depth, a sliver of sweetness and balanced acidity. (13% alc vol) $25
Pencarrow Martinborough Pinot Noir 2020 ★★★★
Matured for 10 months in French oak casks, this ruby-hued red is mouthfilling, savoury and supple, with generous cherry, plum and spice flavours, a hint of tamarillo, and good complexity. (14% alc/vol) $32 l
Wine of the week:
Pencarrow Martinborough Pinot Noir 2021 ★★★★½
Refined and silky textured, this is an ageworthy red. Invitingly perfumed, it is weighty, with strong, well-ripened cherry, plum and spice flavours, showing excellent complexity and harmony, and a savoury, seductively smooth finish. (14% alc/vol) $32
