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Home / The Listener / Life

Weekend wine guide: Hawke’s Bay’s riverbed reds are rich, ripe and eminently drinkable

By Michael Cooper
New Zealand Listener·
14 Dec, 2023 11:00 PM3 mins to read

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Reliably red: The Gimblett Gravels winegrowing district is internationally known. Photo / Supplied

Reliably red: The Gimblett Gravels winegrowing district is internationally known. Photo / Supplied

Gimblett Road, on an old riverbed west of Hastings, was once the least-productive area for farming in Hawke’s Bay (although a popular spot for drag racing at weekends). Now, the surrounding Gimblett Gravels district, defined solely by its notably free-draining, shingly soils, enjoys international acclaim for its classy, flavour-packed merlot and cabernet sauvignon-based reds and super syrahs.

The 2021 vintage Gimblett Gravels reds now filtering onto the shelves are from a warm, dry growing season that led to the earliest grape harvest ever. From vines averaging 20 years old, the wines featured in a promotional dozen from the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association reflect the favourable growing conditions in their richness, ripeness and downright drinkability.

Some of the wines cost well over $100, while others are around $50-$60, or less. If you are looking for distinguished red wines that should reward cellaring for at least a decade, try these.

Mission Jewelstone Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Antoine 2021 ★★★★★

Named after pioneer winemaker Father Antoine Garin (1810-1889), this is a refined blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Matured for a year in French oak casks (60% new), it is deeply coloured, fragrant and finely balanced, with strong, ripe, red berry and blackcurrant flavours seasoned with nutty oak, and supple tannins. (14% alc/vol) $50

Pask Declaration Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2021 ★★★★★

This refined, youthful red was barrel-aged for 18 months. Already delicious, it is full-bodied and finely textured, with concentrated, ripe, red berry, plum and spice flavours, hints of tamarillo and black pepper, fresh acidity and a savoury, very harmonious finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $50

Squawking Magpie The Nest Gimblett Gravels Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2021 ★★★★★

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This full-coloured, purple-flushed red is a single-vineyard blend, matured for 20 months in French oak casks. Youthful and vigorous, it is sturdy and savoury, with strong, ripe red berry, blackcurrant and spice flavours, finely integrated oak, fresh acidity and a well-structured finish. (14% alc/vol) $60

Stonecroft Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Reserve Syrah 2021 ★★★★★

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Certified organic, this very ageworthy red was estate-grown and matured for more than 18 months in French oak barriques. Deeply coloured, with a fragrant, spicy, complex bouquet, it has fresh, concentrated blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours and is vigorous, savoury and finely balanced. (13.5% alc/vol) $60

Wine of the week

Saint Clair James Sinclair Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Malbec 2021 ★★★★½

Offering good value, this dark, purple-flushed red was matured for 10 months in French oak casks. Mouthfilling, vibrantly fruity and supple, it is already highly approachable, with generous, ripe blackcurrant and plum flavours, and a very smooth finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $28

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