Do you enjoy pinot noir? Read Michael Cooper recommendations. Photo / Getty Images
Do you enjoy pinot noir? Read Michael Cooper recommendations. Photo / Getty Images
His passion for pinot noir explains German winemaker Karl Johner’s site in the Wairarapa. After “searching the world” for a second place to grow pinot noir, in 2001 he bought a large block of land at Gladstone, south of Masterton, on the banks of the Ruamahanga River, and planted itprincipally in pinot noir and sauvignon blanc.
Johner gets around. After graduating in oenology from Geisenheim University, he worked for a decade in Kent, helping to pioneer English sparkling wine. In 1985, he and his wife, Irene, planted their first vines in Johner’s home village of Bischoffingen, in Baden-Württemberg. “We began with a large garage on 1ha of land. I was told I wouldn’t be able to make decent pinot noir. But the climate was good, and I did.”
After visiting New Zealand in 1998, Johner “fell in love with everything – the country, the people, the climate and growing conditions. But especially with the results for pinot noir from the Martinborough region”.
His New Zealand and German wines, reviewed below, are all available directly from Johner Estate.
Johner Estate Gladstone Light Riesling 2024
★★★★
This lively, youthful wine is light-bodied, with just 8% alcohol by volume. Pale lemon/green, it is vibrantly fruity, with strong, lemony, appley flavours in a medium-sweet style threaded with tangy, mouth-watering acidity. Finely balanced, it’s already approachable, but well worth cellaring to 2026+. $25
If you love pinot gris, try this Baden beauty. Bright, light yellow/green, with excellent vigour and poise, it has searching, citrusy, peachy, gently spicy flavours and is fresh and lingering. (13.5% alc/vol) $29
Johner Estate Gladstone Reserve Pinot Noir 2020
★★★★★
Hand-picked from the estate’s oldest vines, this powerful, mouthfilling, tightly structured red could easily be described as “brooding” – meaning deep, complex, with unrevealed nuances. Still youthful, with concentrated, ripe cherry, plum, spice and nutty oak flavours, it should flourish with bottle age. (14% alc/vol) $50
Karl H Johner SJ Baden Pinot Noir 2016
★★★★★
From mature vines, this perfumed, graceful, subtle red is delicious now. Deep ruby, it is full-bodied, savoury and supple, with strong, cherryish, spicy flavours, hints of nuts and dark chocolate, and a rich, smooth-flowing finish. (14% alc/vol) $100.
Wine of the week: Johner Estate Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2022
Already drinking well, this ruby-hued red was hand-harvested from the estate’s younger vines and matured for a year in seasoned French oak barrels. Savoury and harmonious, it is full-bodied, with very good depth of vibrant, ripe cherry, plum and spice flavours, and a well-rounded finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $25.
