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Home / The Listener / Life

Weekend wine guide: 127-year-old Hawke’s Bay winery’s top selections

By Michael Cooper
New Zealand Listener·
6 Oct, 2023 03:00 AM3 mins to read

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‘These are, I believe, the best red wines we have ever made,” says Chief winemaker Chris Scott. Photo / Getty Images

‘These are, I believe, the best red wines we have ever made,” says Chief winemaker Chris Scott. Photo / Getty Images

‘These are, I believe, the best red wines we have ever made.” Chief winemaker Chris Scott, who has worked at Church Road since 1998, is referring to the winery’s Tom Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2020 and Tom Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2021, which retail at $220 each.

The 2020 growing season in Hawke’s Bay was warmer and far drier than average, to the point of drought. The 2021 season was also warm and dry, with small crops intensifying the grapes’ ripeness and richness.

Positioned above Church Road’s Grand Reserve wines, which sell in the $40-$45 range, these Tom and 1 Single Vineyard wines are the 127-year-old winery’s top selections, as their prices underline.


Church Road Tom Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2020

★★★★★

Already quite expressive and approachable, this is a dark, bold, fleshy red, with a powerful surge of blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours seasoned with nutty oak, and ripe, supple tannins. Best drinking 2027+. (14.5% alc/vol) $220


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Church Road Tom Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2021

★★★★★

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This rich, smooth-flowing red is deeply coloured, with a spicy fragrance. Highly refined, it is full-bodied, with deep plum and spice flavours, hints of black pepper and liquorice, and excellent complexity and harmony. Open 2026+. (13.5% alc/vol) $220


Church Road 1 Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

★★★★★

This is Church Road’s top chardonnay from a rainy, difficult growing season (there is no Tom Chardonnay from 2022). Grown in the Tukituki Valley, it has a slightly smoky fragrance. Mouthfilling, sweet-fruited and savoury, with concentrated, peachy, mealy, gently toasty flavours, youthful and harmonious, it should be at its best from 2025 onwards. (13.5% alc/vol) $100


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Church Road 1 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

★★★★★

This classy cabernet sauvignon was grown in the Gimblett Gravels. Fragrant and dark, it is mouthfilling, with concentrated, ripe, blackcurrant-evoking flavours and the structure to mature well for a decade or longer. (14% alc/vol) $120


Church Road 1 Single Vineyard Malbec 2021

★★★★★

Robust, dark and dense, this Gimblett Gravels red is crammed with ripe berry, plum and spice flavours. Finely textured with gentle tannins, it has early-drinking appeal but should break into full stride 2026+. $120 (15% alc/vol)


Church Road 1 Single Vineyard Syrah 2021

★★★★★

This refined, elegant red was grown in the Bridge Pā Triangle. Fragrant and full-bodied, it has concentrated, ripe plum and spice flavours, gently seasoned with nutty oak, and a graceful, lasting finish. Best 2026+. (13.5% alc/vol) $120


Wine of the week

Church Road 1 Single Vineyard Merlot 2021

★★★★★

Dark and fragrant, this robust red from the Bridge Pā Triangle is packed with ripe berry, plum and spice flavours, complex, savoury, smooth and rich. It should flourish for a decade. (14.5% alc/vol) $120


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