Sam Clark talks to plant-based chef Tracey Bennett about her love of veganism and cast-iron cookware.
Tell us about your plant-based journey.
I grew up on a classic Kiwi “meat-and-three-vege” diet, but became a girl who never, ever ate a steak. I just made the decision one day that I was going to give up red meat. I just didn’t like it, it was that simple. So, I think I was attracted to vegetarianism. And then I met my husband, Jason Bennett, who was a vegan. I really wanted to cook the food that he loved, so I went on an eight-week Ayurvedic cooking course, which was a game-changer. It’s where I learnt to make my first dahl. I also learnt to cover the food groups: fruit, veges, nuts, seeds, legumes and whole grains – which I didn’t know about until later in my 20s.
How have attitudes towards veganism changed in Aotearoa over the years?
I think a lot more people are relating to the term “plant-based” these days because it’s more inviting. It reminds us that it’s all about eating more plants, more greens, more veges, more fruit – more goodness. My passion is helping people transition to more plant-based eating in a really easy, fun and affordable way. And let’s not forget delicious. I’ve got my first book out now, but I’m standing on the shoulders of many others. So, it’s become quite inspiring, and dare I say, quite fashionable. There are a lot of people out there making delicious plant-based food more accessible; it’s not just lettuce leaves and rabbit food.
Have many of the recipes you cook for your kids made their way into the book?
Absolutely, lots of them. The “Lentil Bolognese” is an absolute family favourite. The “Spicy red lentil dahl”, for those who love a little bit of heat. I raised my kids on tofu. It’s a wonderful protein source, as are dahls, chickpeas and beans. My kids absolutely loved and still love polenta chips, which uses nutritional yeast. It’s high in B vitamins and it’s got a cheesy, savoury flavour, which you can use instead of Parmesan. Quite a lifesaver for a cheeseaholic like me.
You use a lot of cast-iron cookware in your book. What do you like about cooking with cast iron?
I love cast iron because it’s a healthy pan. If you season and look after your cast iron, it will last you years and years. It doesn’t have any sort of lining that has anything concerning in it. It’s wonderful to take to the table and serve from, because it looks so good. It also holds its heat really well. I also love that you can put it on fire or flames. And if you season it well, you’re gonna be able to make good pancakes.
What do you cook when you don’t feel like cooking?
The other day, I was really tired. So I quickly grated some carrots, sliced some red cabbage. I had a bit of coriander in the fridge. I put in a few sliced tomatoes, and sesame seeds. I had some limes, which I drizzled on the salad. I threw tofu in my cast-iron pan and cooked it on both sides and put plenty of tamari on both sides, so it was golden and then just sliced it up a bit. I will often do tofu because you can cook it quickly in a pan. l
Eggplant Involtini
There are a few parts to this recipe, but don’t let it put you off! It is relatively simple to put together and really fun to make.
Serves 2-3. GF/SF
• 1 litre good-quality store-bought tomato pasta sauce
• 1 eggplant
• a few tbsp olive oil
• natural sea salt and cracked black pepper
• 10-12 kalamata olives (optional)
• fresh basil leaves to serve
Caramelised onion
• 1 large onion (or 2 medium)
• olive oil for frying
• 1-3 tbsp maple syrup
• a few splashes of water
Cashew ricotta filling
• 1 cup raw cashews, soaked overnight and well rinsed
• juice of 1 juicy lemon
• 1-2 cloves garlic, chopped – or to taste
• natural sea salt and cracked black pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan-bake.
To prepare eggplant, slice it lengthways about ½cm thick. Brush olive oil on both sides, line up on a baking tray, sprinkle with salt and pepper, then bake in the oven for 20 minutes or until soft and starting to turn golden. Don’t char or burn it, as it needs to stay soft for rolling. Remove from oven.
While the eggplant is baking, slice the onion into half-moons, then add to a frying pan with a little olive oil. Sauté for at least 10 minutes until well softened, then add the maple syrup and a little water. Cook for 5-10 minutes longer – until all golden and caramelised and the water has reduced right down. Leave to cool.
To make the cashew ricotta, put the soaked, rinsed cashews in a food processor or blender with the lemon juice, garlic and salt and pepper to taste. Blend to a smooth consistency, then fold through the well-cooled caramelised onion.
To assemble, preheat the oven to 175°C fan-bake. Put a layer of tomato sauce in the bottom of a rectangular or square baking dish so it is well covered.
Divide the cashew ricotta between eggplant slices, popping about a tablespoon on each slice, then roll “cannelloni style” into a neat roll. Place in rows in the dish. If using olives, pop them in between the rolls. Lastly, drizzle more tomato sauce over each of the rolls.
Place in oven and bake for 15-20 minutes just to heat it all through – too long and it will dry out. Garnish with fresh basil leaves and serve immediately.
Homemade Loaded Hashbrowns
What’s not to love about hashbrowns, especially homemade ones?
Makes 2-4 large hashbrowns. GF/SF/NF
• 6 medium-sized potatoes, skin on
• ¼ cup gluten-free flour (tip: chickpea flour is great for binding)
• natural sea salt and cracked black pepper
• 2-3 cloves garlic, crushed (optional)
• ½-1 tsp smoked paprika (optional)
• 1 tsp dried rosemary or mixed herbs
• 2-3 spring onions, very finely diced (optional)
• oil for cooking
• to serve: sliced avocado, halved and grilled or sliced tomatoes, grilled mushrooms, wilted or fresh baby spinach, a few chunks of plant-based feta (optional)
Wash the potatoes, then grate by hand or in a food processor. Place a few handfuls of grated potato on a muslin cheesecloth or light cotton tea towel, then squeeze to get as much excess liquid out as possible. Tip the squeezed potato into a bowl. Add the flour, salt and pepper, crushed garlic, smoked paprika, dried herbs and optional spring onion. Once mixed through, warm a splash of oil in a non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Spread the potato mixture over the pan in any large-size circle shape you want, making sure you push and pack it together and don’t leave any gaps.
Cook on a low to medium heat for 8-10 minutes or until golden and binding well. Then flip and cook the other side for a few more minutes. Place the hashbrown on a serving plate, then load up with avocado slices, mushrooms, grilled or fresh tomatoes and wilted or fresh baby spinach.
Roast Pumpkin, Lentil & Spinach Lasagne
This is the lasagne dish that you can eat and not feel like you need a “nana nap” afterwards.
Serves 4-6. GF/SF
• 750g pumpkin, cut into roughly 1cm slices
• natural sea salt and cracked black pepper
• olive oil as needed
• 1-2 tbsp dried Italian herbs
• 4 cups torn spinach leaves or baby spinach
• cheese sauce (see recipe below)
• 3 cups tomato pasta sauce
• 1 packet of gluten-free lasagne sheets
• 1-2 400g tins brown lentils, drained and rinsed
• fresh basil leaves to serve
Cheese sauce
• 1 cup raw cashews
• 2 cups soy or oat milk
• ½-1 cup water
• ½ cup savoury yeast flakes
• 2-3 cloves garlic, crushed
• 1 tsp mild miso paste
• juice of 1 lemon
• 1 tbsp rice flour
• freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 175°C fan-bake.
Toss the pumpkin slices in olive oil. Spread over an oven tray, then sprinkle with salt, pepper and Italian herbs. Bake for 30 minutes or until soft. Turn once.
Mix the drained lentils into your chosen tomato sauce. Place the spinach in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes until just wilted, then drain and set aside.
To make the sauce, blend the cashews in a high-speed food processor into a fine flour. Mix milk and half the water together in a pot. Bring to a gentle boil, then add the yeast flakes, ground cashews, garlic, miso, lemon juice, rice flour and pepper. Whisk until smooth.
Bring back to a soft boil, stirring continuously, then drop the heat to a simmer. Keep stirring and simmering until the sauce thickens, adding a little more water if needed. Remove from the heat and set aside.
To assemble the lasagne, use a classic 20cm x 30cm rectangular baking dish. Pour some pasta sauce into the bottom, then place 3 lasagne sheets (check they don’t need pre-cooking first) across evenly with gaps in between.
Cover with a layer of pumpkin slices, a layer of spinach, some cheese sauce and some more tomato sauce.
Add more lasagne sheets and repeat the other layers. Repeat again if you have enough ingredients, finishing with a layer of lasagne sheets and saving some tomato sauce and cheese sauce for the top.
Cover with foil and bake for 40 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for another 15 minutes. It is best to let it stand for 10-15 minutes before you slice it, then serve immediately, scattered with fresh basil leaves and with a huge fresh green salad. l
An edited extract from Plant-Based Goodness, by Tracey Bennett (The Reckless Foodie, RRP $49.99).
