Jasmine blossoms arrive when spring is in full swing, and every year I look forward to the vines on my back fence bursting into a sea of white. I spend a week admiring their beauty and perfume, and then it’s time to make syrup. There is something old-world artisan about this process – the maker gains as much pleasure in the making as the eater. A soft pillowy sponge roll is the perfect expression of jasmine’s elusive aroma.
Fresh jasmine blossom cream roll
Jasmine syrup
• 700g caster sugar
• 1 vanilla bean, split lengthways and seeds scraped
• 16g jasmine flowers, plus extra to serve
Jasmine pearls
• 500g grapeseed oil
• 2g (¼ tsp) agar powder
• 6g caster sugar
• 200g jasmine syrup, strained
Jasmine cream
• 350g thick cream
• 5g jasmine tea leaves
• 2g (¼ tsp) powdered gelatine
• 50g jasmine syrup, strained
Matcha sponge sheet
• 180g (approx 9) egg yolks
• 125g caster sugar
• 8g matcha powder
• 160g gluten-free flour
• 180g (approx 6) egg whites
• icing sugar, for dusting
Method
To make the jasmine syrup, combine the sugar and vanilla seeds and bean in a saucepan with 1 litre of water and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat, add the jasmine flowers and agitate with a chopstick or spoon while the syrup is still warm. Allow to cool, then transfer to a preserving jar. Store in the fridge until required.
For the pearls, place the grapeseed oil in a tall jar and put in the freezer. Ensure you leave enough time for the oil to get very cold. Mix the agar powder with the sugar. (This prevents the agar clumping when added to the hot liquid.) Place the jasmine syrup in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Quickly add the agar and sugar and whisk in well. Allow to boil for 1 minute, then turn off the heat. When cool enough to handle, transfer to a bottle, but do not allow to cool below body temperature or the jelly will set. Bring the oil out of the freezer and drip in the jasmine liquid – pearls should form as the liquid hits the oil. Allow to sit until the pearls are firm, about 5 minutes, then strain.
To make the jasmine cream, place half the cream in a saucepan and bring to a gentle boil. Add the jasmine tea and stir well, then allow to cool. Strain out the tea, add the remaining cream and chill overnight. The next day, add the powdered gelatine to 10g water and stir well. When the gelatine has bloomed, gently heat in the microwave until it liquefies. Add this to the jasmine syrup. Whip the cream in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. When firm peaks have formed, pour the syrup into the whipped cream on slow speed. Mix for a few seconds then turn the mixer off. Refrigerate until needed.
Preheat the oven to 220°C.
For the matcha sponge sheet, spray a shallow baking tray with oil and line with baking paper. Using a stand mixer fitted with the whisk, whip the egg yolks with 50g of the caster sugar until pale and thick, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a large, shallow bowl. Mix the matcha powder with the flour. Add the egg whites to a clean, dry stand mixer bowl and whip to soft peaks using the whisk attachment. Shake in the remainder of the caster sugar, then whip to firm peaks. Fold the whites into the yolks, then fold in the flour and matcha mix. Transfer the batter to the tray and smooth flat with a palette knife. Bake for 7-8 minutes, then remove from the oven and allow to cool for 5 minutes. Before the sponge cools down totally, dust it with icing sugar and flip the sponge upside down on to a fresh sheet of baking paper. Peel the used paper off the bottom of the sponge and roll the sponge cake up. Allow to cool, rolled up, in the paper.
To assemble, unfurl the sponge sheet and smooth the jasmine cream on with a palette knife, reserving a little for piping on top. Roll up tightly and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours before cutting. When you’re ready to serve, dust the roll with icing sugar, pipe a little more jasmine cream on top and finish with the jasmine pearls and fresh jasmine flowers.
Finger lime limoncello savarin
Finger limes have become one of Australia’s favourite native ingredients. This savarin-style cake is the perfect vehicle to bring the flavour of finger lime to the forefront. Savarin dough is similar to a brioche but wetter, which allows it to be piped.
Makes 12 individual savarins
Equipment: 12-hole savarin tray or moulds
Candied finger limes
• 4 finger lime skins. You can substitute caviar limes or the ordinary variety
• 100g caster sugar, plus extra for tossing
Savarin Preferment
• 50g full-cream milk
• 10g fresh yeast
• 66g plain flour
Savarin dough
• 120g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
• 15g caster sugar
• 3g (½ tsp) fine salt
• 120g (approx 2) whole eggs
• 1 tbsp full-cream milk
• 60g (¼ cup) butter, diced
Limoncello syrup
• 250g caster sugar
• zest of 1 lemon
• 60g limoncello
To garnish
• 1 tsp candied finger lime skins per portion
Method
For the candied finger lime skins, bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Thinly slice the skins, reserving the inner caviar for garnish if using finger or caviar limes. Add to the pot and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain the lime, reserving the cooking water and skins. Bring 100g of the reserved cooking water and the sugar to the boil in a saucepan. Add the finger lime skins, reduce the heat to low and cook gently for 30 minutes. Strain the skins and dry on a paper towel. Transfer to a baking tray lined with baking paper and dehydrate for about 1 hour in an oven at 55°C or the lowest setting. Toss the skins in extra sugar and allow to air-dry.
To make the savarins, grease the savarin moulds with butter and dust with flour.
Make the savarin preferment by gently warming the milk in a saucepan, then whisk in the yeast. Add the flour to a bowl and pour in the warm milk. Whisk until homogeneous, then allow to bubble for about 15 minutes.
Add the preferment, plain flour, sugar, salt, eggs and milk to a stand mixer bowl and knead with the dough hook attachment until smooth, about 8 minutes. Warm the butter in the microwave in short bursts until it is very soft, but not melted. Beat the butter using a rubber spatula to make sure it is smooth, then add it to the mixer bowl. Beat on medium speed until incorporated, about 4 minutes.
Oil a bowl with a neutral-flavoured oil and transfer the dough to the bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and leave in a warm place until doubled in size, about 30 minutes.
Knock back the dough then transfer it to a piping bag fitted with a medium plain nozzle. Pipe the dough into the moulds to about one-third full. Oil a sheet of plastic wrap and cover the moulds. Allow these to prove in a warm place until doubled in size, about 30-45 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180°C.
When the savarins are doubled in size, bake for 25-30 minutes, or until golden brown and a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Turn the savarins onto a wire rack and allow to cool uncovered for a couple of hours.
Put all the limoncello syrup ingredients in a saucepan big enough to hold the savarins. Add 500g water and heat to 50°C (120°F), then add the savarins. Allow to soak in the liquid for 1 minute, then flip them over and leave to soak for another minute. Remove from the liquid with a slotted spoon and allow to cool. Spoon on the finger lime caviar (if using) and garnish with the candied lime skins.
Steamed chocolate bao with “rescued” croissant
When I was a young chef, the only way to learn was to work for a master, who would teach you only after you’d spent months proving your worth. That, or buy and pore over very expensive cookbooks. Now, you can learn pretty much anything on the internet, which not only allows the propagation of techniques, but also forces professionals to constantly update their methods. My version of this chocolate bao is made from “rescued” (leftover) chocolate croissants – helping to reduce food waste, one pain au chocolat at a time.
Makes 6 buns
Ingredients
• 200g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
• 15g cornflour (cornstarch)
• 55g caster sugar
• 8g cocoa powder
• 40g chocolate croissants (pain au chocolat), finely chopped
• 3g instant yeast
• 170g full-cream milk
• 25g canola oil, or other neutral oil
Method
Combine the flour, cornstarch, sugar, cocoa powder, croissants and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add the milk and mix on slow speed until combined. Add the oil and continue to mix on slow speed until the dough is smooth and shiny.
Transfer to an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and allow to rest for 1 hour.
Transfer the dough to a floured benchtop and roll into a rectangle 3mm thick. Cut into long strips and cut a slit in the centre of each strip, leaving the ends intact. Roll up each strip into two connected spirals. With two chopsticks, press down lengthways on the spirals, allowing the layers to open up. Press the sides of the dough inwards with the chopsticks just under the top layers to form rainbow shapes.
From a piece of baking paper, cut circles that are slightly larger than a bun.
Next, steam the buns. You can do this in a double boiler, or the oven if you have a combi oven. For a double boiler, place one pot with holes in the base inside another pot filled halfway with water and bring to a strong simmer over a medium-high heat. Place the bao on the baking-paper circles and add them to the top pot (work in batches to avoid overcrowding). Cover, and steam for 20 minutes, or until fluffy. If using a combi oven, place the bao on the paper circles and place on a perforated tray and steam for 20 minutes until fluffy.
An edited extract from Modern Australian Baking, by Christopher Thé (Hardie Grant Books, RRP $60).
