Which do you prefer: pinot noir made from the classic variety of Burgundy, or cabernet sauvignon and merlot-based reds crafted from the traditional grapes of Bordeaux? A magistrate, once pressed on this issue, reputedly replied, “That is a trial in which I so thoroughly enjoy weighing the evidence that I always put off any verdict until the next week.”
New Zealand’s cool climate for viticulture, from the Wairarapa south, suits the relatively early-ripening pinot noir. But Hawke’s Bay is warmer, with the ability in favourable seasons to produce notably rich yet elegant reds from later-ripening merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Syrah, the great grape of the Rhône Valley, also flourishes in the Bay.
Alpha Domus The Aerofoil Bridge Pā Triangle Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
★★★★★
From estate-grown vines in conversion to organic status, this dark, mouthfilling red has very generous ripe blackcurrant, red berry, plum and spice flavours, complex and savoury, and good tannin backbone. Matured in French oak barriques, it should be at its best 2028+. $40
Askerne Dr John Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Cabernet Franc 2021
★★★★★
Full of personality, this powerful, cabernet sauvignon-predominant (67%) blend was aged in French oak barrels. Weighty and complex, it has concentrated lush blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours, finely integrated nutty oak, ripe, supple tannins and a smooth, lasting finish. $65
Askerne Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2022
★★★★
Already drinking well, this full-coloured red was estate-grown near Havelock North and aged for a year in French oak barriques. Mouthfilling and savoury, it has generous, ripe blackcurrant, red berry and spice flavours, showing very good complexity, and supple tannins. $25
Babich Winemakers’ Reserve Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2020
★★★★★
Grown in the Irongate Vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels, this blend of merlot (87%) and malbec (13%) was matured for nearly a year in French oak casks. Deeply coloured, it is sturdy, with rich, well-ripened berry, plum and spice flavours, finely integrated oak and fine, supple tannins. (14.5% alc/vol) $35
Church Road Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2021
★★★★
This elegant red offers great value. Floral and supple, it is a vividly varietal, medium- to full-bodied wine, with concentrated red berry, plum and dark chocolate flavours, a distinctly spicy, peppery streak, and good complexity. $19-$22
Church Road McDonald Series Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
★★★★½
This deeply coloured red was grown in similar proportions in the Bridge Pā Triangle and the Gimblett Gravels, barrique-aged, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Mouthfilling and well ripened, it has rich, vibrant blackcurrant and red berry flavours, gently seasoned with nutty oak, and smooth tannins. Best drinking 2027+. $26-$29
Čuvar Iris Collection Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2023
★★★★
This youthful, vigorous, single-vineyard red was grown in the Gimblett Gravels and matured for over 18 months in oak barriques. Full-coloured, with a fresh, peppery bouquet, it is mouthfilling and vibrant, with strong, plummy, spicy flavours, a hint of liquorice, oak complexity and supple tannins. $30
Čuvar Iris Collection Hawke’s Bay Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2022
★★★★½
Enjoyable young, this is a blend of merlot (81%) and cabernet franc (13%), with splashes of malbec and cabernet sauvignon. Hand-picked in the Gimblett Gravels and matured in French oak barriques, it is deeply coloured and full-bodied, with strong, ripe plum and red berry flavours, gentle spicy notes, savoury notes adding complexity, and smooth tannins. $24-$30
Elephant Hill Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2020
★★★★½
This deeply coloured, energetic red was hand-picked and matured for 30 months in oak barrels and tanks before bottling. Full-bodied and supple, it has deep, vibrant plum and black pepper flavours, showing good complexity, a slightly earthy streak, and a well-spiced, very harmonious finish. $27-$36
Elephant Hill Stone Merlot/Malbec/Cabernet Franc 2021
★★★★★
Dark, fragrant and concentrated, this merlot-based, Gimblett Gravels blend was matured for two years in French oak casks. Sturdy, it has rich, ripe blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours, seasoned with nutty oak, excellent complexity, supple tannins and a very harmonious finish. Well worth cellaring. (14.5% alc/vol) $65
Esk Valley Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2024
★★★★
Priced sharply, this full-coloured, mouthfilling red has generous, well-ripened blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours, a hint of dark chocolate, supple tannins and excellent harmony. A fruit-driven (gently oaked) style, it should be at its best 2027+. $20
La Collina Syrah 2021
★★★★★
La Collina (“The Hill”) is grown at Bilancia’s steep site on the northern slopes of Roy’s Hill, overlooking the Gimblett Gravels, and matured in principally new French oak barriques. This deeply coloured red reveals lovely complexity and texture. Still very youthful, it is mouthfilling, with deep blackcurrant, spice and plum flavours, a hint of liquorice, good tannin backbone and a lasting, savoury finish. Best drinking 2028+. $140
Maison Noire Home Block Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2021
★★★★★
Built for the long haul, this very powerful red was estate-grown at Waimārama and aged for two years in French oak barrels (70% new). Deeply coloured, it is weighty and fleshy, with a strong surge of plummy, spicy flavours, seasoned with nutty oak, a hint of liquorice, and ripe, supple tannins. $40-$70
Mills Reef Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2022
★★★★
This youthful, vigorous, full-coloured red was matured for a year in French oak barrels. Mouthfilling, it has good concentration of plum, red berry and spice flavours, gently seasoned with toasty oak. $25
Mission Jewelstone Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2021
★★★★★
A very refined, single-vineyard red, this was estate-grown and matured in French oak casks. Dark and purple-flushed, with a floral, spicy fragrance, it is full-bodied and savoury, with deep plum and black pepper flavours, showing excellent ripeness and density, a hint of dark chocolate, and a finely structured finish. Best drinking 2028+. $58-$70
Mission Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2022
★★★★
Harvested from 20-year-old vines, this single-vineyard red was aged for a year in French oak barrels. Full-coloured, it is mouthfilling and savoury, with very good depth of ripe red berry and spice flavours, a gentle seasoning of nutty oak adding complexity, and supple, finely balanced tannins. $20-$30
Radburnd Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2020
★★★★★
This highly refined, youthful red was hand-picked at two sites, in the Bridge Pā Triangle and at Mangatahi, and matured for 17 months in French oak barriques. Full-coloured, it is a mouthfilling, savoury, smooth-flowing red, vividly varietal, with vibrant, plummy, spicy flavours, gentle tannins, and excellent delicacy and length. $85
Redmetal Vineyards Bridge Pā Triangle Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2024
★★★★½
Delicious young, this powerful red includes splashes of cabernet franc (9%) and merlot (4%). Deeply coloured, it is sturdy and lush, with rich, well-ripened fruit flavours, hints of liquorice and dark chocolate, and a seductively smooth finish. (14.5% alc/vol) $25
Redmetal Vineyards Bridge Pā Triangle Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Franc 2024
★★★★
From young vines, this vibrantly fruity red was aged in a 50/50 split of stainless-steel tanks and oak barrels. Full-coloured, it is mouthfilling, with well-ripened red berry and spice flavours, showing some savoury complexity, supple tannins, and very good depth and harmony. $30
Saint Clair Origin Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Cabernet/Merlot 2021
★★★★
Dark, youthful and vibrantly fruity, this blend of cabernet sauvignon (77%) and merlot (23%) was partly oak-matured. It has a fragrant, fresh, slightly herbal bouquet. Full-bodied and vigorous, it has concentrated berry, plum, herb and spice flavours, showing considerable complexity. $22-$27
Saint Clair James Sinclair Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Malbec 2021
★★★★½
Offering good value, this dark, purple-flushed red was matured for 10 months in French oak casks. Mouthfilling, vibrant and supple, it is highly approachable, with generous, ripe blackcurrant and plum flavours, fresh acidity and a very smooth finish. $28
Smith & Sheth Cru Heretaunga Syrah 2021
★★★★★
This dark, purple-flushed red was hand-harvested in the Gimblett Gravels and inland at Mangatahi, and matured in French oak barriques. Mouthfilling, it is still youthful, with fresh, concentrated plum and black pepper flavours, gently seasoned with oak, and excellent density, vigour and structure. Likely to be long-lived, it’s well worth cellaring. $40
Smith & Sheth Cru Heretaunga Cabernet Franc 2022
★★★★★
This sturdy, sweet-fruited red was hand harvested in the Bridge Pā Triangle and matured in French oak barriques. Deeply coloured, it has fresh, concentrated red berry and spice flavours, showing very good complexity, and fine, supple tannins. A very elegant, savoury red from a “forward” vintage, it’s worth discovering. (14.5% alc/vol) $40
Te Mata Awatea Hawke’s Bay Cabernets/Merlot 2023
★★★★★
Positioned below its Coleraine stablemate in Te Mata’s hierarchy of claret-style reds, Awatea is grown at Havelock North and in the Bullnose Vineyard, inland from Hastings. This refined, generous red is full-coloured and mouthfilling, with deep blackcurrant, plum, spice and herb flavours, in a savoury, supple style, showing excellent vigour and harmony. Best drinking 2028+. $40-$49
Tironui Hawke’s Bay Merlot Malbec 2022
★★★★½
Estate-grown and hand-picked in a Taradale hillside vineyard, this merlot-based blend was matured for a year in seasoned French oak barrels. Full-coloured, it is mouthfilling, with generous, ripe, berryish, distinctly spicy flavours, a subtle oak influence, good complexity, supple tannins, and a harmonious finish. $40
Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2024
★★★★
Offering good value, this powerful young red is well worth discovering. Full-coloured, it is sturdy and fruit-packed, with strong, ripe blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours, hints of herbs, chocolate and nuts, and supple tannins. $18-$22
Trinity Hill Prison Block Single Vineyard Gimblett Gravels Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
★★★★★
From a site once earmarked for a prison, but “better suited to vines than villains”, this classy red was aged for 19 months in French oak barriques (85% new). Dark and purple-flushed, it is powerful and fragrant, with dense, vibrant, well-ripened blackcurrant, plum, dark chocolate, liquorice, spice and nut flavours. It should flourish for 10-20 years, given its striking depth, complexity and harmony. $120
Unison Syrah Rocks Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2020
★★★★½
This deeply coloured red was estate-grown and matured for 20 months in oak barriques. Mouthfilling, it has concentrated, ripe, red berry and spice flavours, a hint of dark chocolate, and savoury notes adding complexity. A generous, supple, vividly varietal red, revealing very good personality and harmony, it should be at its best 2026+. $38-$40
Vidal Reserve Hawke’s Bay Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
★★★★½
Matured for 18 months in French oak barrels, this great-value red was grown in the Gimblett Gravels. Full of youthful energy, it has deep, bright colour. Mouthfilling, with generous red berry and blackcurrant flavours, finely integrated oak, spicy and nutty notes adding complexity, and refined tannins, it’s well worth cellaring. $16-$20
Villa Maria Cellar Selection Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2022
★★★★
Still youthful, this graceful red offers good value. Full-coloured, it is a fragrant, medium- to full-bodied wine, with very good depth of vibrant plum, spice and black pepper flavours, showing a distinct touch of complexity, supple tannins, and a harmonious, lingering finish. (12.5% alc/vol) $22
Villa Maria Cellar Selection Hawke’s Bay Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
★★★½
Priced sharply, this full-coloured red has a fragrant bouquet. Mouthfilling, it is vibrantly fruity, with strong, fresh, plum and spice flavours, showing some savoury complexity. $17
Zaria Hawke’s Bay Merlot & Cabernet Franc 2024
★★★★½
Priced right, this fleshy, generous, merlot-based blend was hand-harvested in the Bridge Pā Triangle and matured in seasoned oak casks. Mouthfilling, it is full-coloured, with strong red berry and spice flavours, hints of blackcurrants and herbs, finely integrated oak and a well-rounded, very harmonious finish. Best drinking 2027+. $27-$30
Note: all wines are 13-14% alc/vol, unless stated otherwise.
