Taupō 's Sian Moffitt named in NZ rock climbing team

Sian Moffitt has been asked to join the Climbing New Zealand Oceania 2020 team to compete in Sydney in March.

Sian Moffitt has been climbing half her life.

The 22-year-old received a surprise phone call three weeks ago, asking her to join the New Zealand Oceania 2020 team to compete in Sydney in March. The Kids Greening Taupō education co-ordinator had just missed out on selection in October at the NZ National Combined Rock Climbing competition.

An unlucky call-down in the October national qualifying event in Tauranga had placed Sian in 11th position out of the New Zealander competitors. The top eight automatically qualified, and so instead of resuming an intensive rock-climbing training course, Sian spent the last few months doing volunteer conservation work, adventuring and relaxing.

"I was told that I brushed the black tape [out-of-bounds-area] and was absolutely gutted.

"The worst part was knowing how hard I had trained for the competition, how strong I climbed on the day and where I would have ranked if I hadn't been disqualified."

Sian said it took lots of time to process the disappointment of not making the New Zealand team. She says baiting Argentine ants in the Mercury Islands (among other things) has helped her de-stress and reconnect with her passions.

"Instead of training hard, I have had lots of time to socialise over the summer."

A phone call three weeks ago changed everything. A space on the team had become available.

"I was shaking, filled with lots of emotions and relief. But also the stress considering I now only had two months to prepare for a massive competition and had already booked things in, such as work [with Kids Greening Taupō.]"

With the event five weeks away, Sian says her goal for Sydney is to train as hard as she can, do the best she can and have fun.

"It's a really hard competition. It's also a qualifier for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. However only one female will be chosen to go from Australasia."

In 2019 Sian trained intensively for four months prior to the nationals, catching the Friday night bus to Auckland and returning on Sundays, with rock climbing training on Saturday.

New Zealand got its first speed wall in October last year, and Sian says the community and her parents Gail and David Moffitt have been hugely supportive financially as well as helping at climbing sessions.

"Mum belayed me for six years of my climbing journey."

Sian has represented New Zealand five times already, and says she is proud to have another opportunity to wear the black singlet.