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Home / Hawkes Bay Today / Lifestyle

Yvonne Lorkin: Wine with experimental grapes (+sips to try)

By Yvonne Lorkin
NZME. regionals·
23 Nov, 2015 05:00 PM3 mins to read

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Yvonne Lorkin

Yvonne Lorkin

When Kim and Erica Crawford sold the Kim Crawford brand back in 2003, it was fair to say the New Zealand wine industry stood back, scratched its collective scalp and wondered what on earth these two vin-trepreneureal powerhouses would do next.

The silence stretched for years until the Crawford's revealed they were planting grapes on a barren sheep paddock, high up in the hills overlooking Marlborough's Awatere Valley. And they were going to go completely organic.

Blocks were planted in varieties proven to do well in the Awatere such as pinot noir, riesling, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc. But there was one triangular patch on the top of the hill on the eastern side of the property that they'd decided to get a little crazy with. They called it G Block, where experimental plantings of arneis, viognier, chenin blanc, gewrztraminer, moscato, pinot blanc, sauvignon gris, st laurent and tempranillo were soon sprouting buds. But was bloody hard to get them to grow.

For starters there were the relentless, chilling winds that rip at 110kmph for 10 months of the year. Then there were the difficult, depleted soils and pastoral land surrounded the property in every direction. The problem is that land is riddled with grassgrubs, which grew into bronze beetles, which attacked the vines constantly. "They target the bunches first, then they attack your growing shoots," says Kim.

The viognier didn't grow; they've only had two crops of gewrztraminer, the tempranillo was just as tragic, and sadly, after releasing a tiny clutch of delicious wines from G block, they've gone back to the drawing board.

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"We're devoted to organic farming. We were pleased to be able to produce unique, small crops from this challenging growing environment, and make wine with grapes we haven't grown before." says Erica.

Super sweet to crisp and citrus

Loveblock Noble Chenin Blanc 2014, 500ml, $29

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Here's the thing. Do not under any circumstances attempt to drink this wine if you know that you're in possession of untreated tooth decay or cavities of any description. At over 230g/l residual sugar and 12g/l titrateable acidity, this sticky-sweet treat is dangerously delicious. Golden-bronze in the glass and bursting with baked apple, toffee and strudel spices, this is one intensely decadent dessert wine made from a rare variety over here.

Loveblock Organic Riesling 2012, $25

Aroma-wise, this wine is leaning into that mealy, biscuit-like, kerosene character and yet when you sip, it is bright and banging with lime, mandarin and crunchy apple flavours. It's a wine that has two totally different sides and I like that - the length of flavour is impressive too.

Sawmill India Pale Ale 330ml cans, 4 pack $17

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Sweet, passionfruity hops, herbaceous notes and a resinous lift make it difficult to prise this delicious beer away from your nose for long enough to sip it! But when you do, you'll be met with layers of crisp citrus combined with caramelised malts and a long, tangy finish.

-Yvonne travelled to this tasting with support from Loveblock Wines.

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