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Home / Hawkes Bay Today / Lifestyle

Yvonne Lorkin: The Kiwi cellar's chunky best mate

By Yvonne Lorkin
NZME. regionals·
5 Dec, 2014 04:00 PM5 mins to read

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Know what you're buying - and why - with the latest edition of Michael Cooper's guide to New Zealand vinos

Know what you're buying - and why - with the latest edition of Michael Cooper's guide to New Zealand vinos

When Michael Cooper's very first Buyer's Guide to New Zealand Wine was released 23 years ago, it was a skinny, lightweight thing designed to slip into your pocket or purse. This made it easy to whip out and consult whenever you were at the grog shop looking for something a tad tastier than a box of Blenheimer. Back then, I was of the teenaged opinion that Marque Vue and Miami Wine Cooler were the best things ever, closely followed by Wohnsiedler and White Cloud.

Over the years, the size of Cooper's book has kept pace with the growth of our industry. Now, instead of being able to tuck his tome into your pants pocket, it's so weighty Cross Fit nuts have been seen heaving them around for strength training. Army drill sergeants have even been known to chuck a copy or two into new recruits' backpacks during boot camp to break their will. So yes, with independent, unbiased ratings and the most comprehensive collection of tasting notes on practically every NZ wine in the marketplace, it's seriously heavy.

Cooper also provides insightful explanations of what's going on across the Kiwi winescape, a 2014 vintage report, useful production statistics, sage advice on what constitutes a "Classic Wine of New Zealand" and his highly anticipated "Best Buys of the Year" picks (Villa Maria's Cellar Selection Hawke's Bay Viognier 2014 ($19.95) and Brancott Estate's Hawke's Bay Merlot 2013 ($17) in case you were wondering).

All it takes is $39.99 to buy solid advice on more than 3000 wines - that's a bargain.

But, if you'd rather save the trees and stick to an electronic version, the same fee will buy you an annual subscription to Cooper's website, michaelcooper.co.nz, which has his entire Buyer's Guide online.

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Low-alcohol wines' new high

Pioneering proponent of low-alcohol wines, Dr John Forrest, of Forrest Wines in Marlborough, was understandably thrilled to bits that his positively demure, 9 per cent alcohol Doctor's Riesling 2014 ($20) has now scooped a hat trick of awards.

By winning a gold medal at Marlborough Wine Show and the Champion Riesling and Champion Open White Wine trophies at the recent Air NZ Wine Awards, he gives us consumers undeniable proof that you don't need heaping wads of alcohol to make good wine.

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Lovers of sauvignon blanc also have another, safer and, more importantly, "tasty" option, knowing the low alcohol (9 per cent) 2013 Forrest Doctor's Sauvignon Blanc also got a gold medal at the Sydney Top 100 wine competition a fortnight ago.

"For us, that's probably the greatest achievement of the year, competing against open class, full-alcohol sauvignons is huge for us," John says.

These wines are not only good for the mind, body and soul, says Dr Forrest, this building of awareness that good, low-alcohol wines do exist, also comes at a timely confluence with the lowering of the drink-drive alcohol limit this month. In the context of the lowered driving limit, "if you do the maths, you'll see the average alcohol drop of the low-alcohol sauvignons out there is the same drop as the liquor law change - from a blood alcohol limit of 80mg of alcohol per 100ml of blood to 50mg.

"In a simplistic illustration, if you know you can have three wines over two hours in a social situation to remain within the existing limit and be safe to drive today, then that same philosophy will apply from December 1 if you switch to a low-alcohol wine".

Discover more

Yvonne Lorkin: Same name, but vive la difference

10 Nov 04:00 PM

Yvonne Lorkin: Gadgets for vino lovers

28 Nov 04:00 PM

Yvonne Lorkin: Vino chalks up another health plus

20 Dec 04:00 PM

Yvonne Lorkin: Classy team captures taste of region

26 Dec 04:00 PM

Better skills in achieving "low-alcohol" without compromising flavour is the reason behind the upsurge in popularity and accolades for these wines, says Dr Forrest.

"It's taken a while, but it's amazing how this year our retailers are being bombarded with requests for good, low-alcohol wines. That's an excellent thing," he says. "Our low-alcohol markets in the UK and Canada are building, America is roaring with it and now, finally, New Zealanders are embracing the idea. What's fascinating is that in light of the $17 million Lifestyle Wines Government grant programme, which is now under way, we did a recent tasting of NZ low-alcohol styles alongside overseas imports.

"The astonishing thing was how bad the imports tasted, and how good the New Zealand offering was in comparison. This is before any of the additional research and techniques we're all working on have even been applied.

"So we're already at a huge advantage in this category in terms of the quality New Zealand is producing. We are well on track to being seen as an international leader."

SIPS OF THE WEEK

Taylor's Promised Land Shiraz Cabernet 2013, $18

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This is a gutsy, spicy red that bursts with ripe plum, cocoa and boysenberry characters, with a hint of eucalypt and dried herb packed in for good measure, too. It's got that quaffable sweetness on the finish, and has pepper steak written all over it. Best of all you can buy it from pretty much everywhere.

Brancott Estate Flight Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2014, $17

Not only does this fizz have attractive, lemon, lime and passionfruit aromas and a clean, zesty mouthfeel; it's also only 9 per cent alcohol, which means you can have a couple of glasses at lunchtime and not declare your undying love for your boss or fall asleep on top of the photocopier when you get back to the office. www.countdown.co.nz

Bladen Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2014, $25

Wow! With its seductively musky aromas of ripe white peach, spicy ginger, melon, white pepper and toffee, this wine had me dribbling before I'd even sipped it. Sweet and tangy - it's superb. www.bladen.co.nz

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