BREATHTAKING: An example of the art-filled palazzi in Strada Nuove Genova. Genoa’s main shopping street, it was named a UNESCO heritage site in 2006. Paxabay picture
Sandwiched between the sea and the Ligurian hills, Genoa (Genova in Italian) is an almost vertical city, spreading upwards from the port.
Strolling the streets, it’s the heady mix of high-density faded glory, sparkling Mediterranean light and medieval lanes that all make a strong first impression.
I began my exploring down in Porto Antico, the time-honoured Old Port, which had become notoriously tatty until Renzo Piano gave it a makeover to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus sailing off to the Americas from here.
It has been redesigned to be a cultural hub for the city, graced with a variety of structures designed by Piano, including the Biosphere, containing an unexpected tropical forest and the Bigo Panoramic Lift. This huge spider-like contraption shoots you up 40 metres for a fabulous view over the glinting Mediterranean.
Galata Maritime Museum is a must if you’re wanting to understand more of Genoa’s sea-faring past. With high-tech displays, real-life replica galleys and over 6000 original artefacts, it’s a maritime head swirl.
Right next door, the famous “acquario”, the biggest in Europe with over 10,000 square metres and 5000 sea creatures, is dedicated to conservation and education. Step inside the gracious Palazzo di San Giorgio. The palace’s most famous resident was none other than Marco Polo, who was an inmate in the building’s prison, from 1296 to 1299. He was arrested for commanding a Venetian galley in a war against Genova. While there, he told tales of his travels through Asia to his fellow prisoners and the guards alike. Before long, Europe was enthralled by his tales.
I ventured into the Medieval Quarter, fast getting lost in this web of caruggi (alleys) that thread their way up, down and across the centre of the city. Like little canyons, the caruggi are flanked with pastel-hued buildings as high as six storeys. These cavernous lanes are still like a honeycomb of unvarnished Genovese life and are home to a hive of tucked-away restaurants, bars and shops.
Do not miss San Lorenzo Cathedral. Its black-and-white zebra- striped Gothic exterior continues to impress once you’ve passed the stone lions and headed inside. First consecrated in 1188, the cathedral’s continued existence is largely due to the dud World War 2 British bomb that failed to ignite in 1941. Remarkably, it still sits to the right of the nave like a vintage curio. From the cathedral, I strolled to the ancient city walls, where nearby, I entered the small stone house, identified in the 19th century as the childhood home of Christopher Columbus.
Fancy some prestigious palazzo perving? I’m a sucker for extravagant architecture and Genova lays it on thick. The city’s main shopping street, Via Garibaldi, was formerly known as Strada Nuova and made it on to UNESCO’s World Heritage site list in 2006. With neighbouring Via Cairoli and Via Balbi, this simple walking circuit through Genova’s Old Town unveils over 40 truly epic Renaissance and Baroque palazzi from the 16th century. Owned by a Who’s Who of old-school Genovese society, many have been repurposed as galleries and museums.
Keep your eyes peeled for Palazzo Spinola, previously home to one of Genova’s most formidable dynasties and now a magnificent Renaissance art museum, across four floors, after being gifted to the state. Another palazzo, Doge’s Palace, is the former home of the Doges of Genoa, the ruler of the Republic of Genoa from the 1300s to the 1700s. Now it hosts art exhibitions and cultural events.
Then there is Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace), a 17th-century palace built by the Balbi family. It was once a large residence for the three most powerful families in town (Balbis, Durazzo and Savoy) and today it is a museum, housing historical furniture, hundreds of paintings and sculptures.
Another Renaissance showpiece brimming with art is Palazzo Ducale. Nearby, a landmark stop to fill your Insta feed is the frothy Piazza de Ferrari. Genova’s fountain-embellished piazza is ringed by magnificently ornate buildings including the opera house, Teatro Carlo Felice, and the art nouveau blockbuster, Palazzo della Borsa, which was previously Italy’s stock exchange.
Where to stay? Handily located opposite Genova Principe Train Station, Hotel Continental is a restored Art Nouveau property, overlooking the old city. It offers elegant rooms with parquet floors, magnificent fish-themed wallpaper, an antique wood-panelled lift, free WiFi, and a lavish breakfast buffet.
I booked my Genova accommodation on Expedia, one of the world’s largest full-service travel sites, saving you money from its wide selection of airfares, lodging deals, car rentals and activities. Use the Expedia mobile app or visit www.expedia.co.nz