Use your hair conditioner wisely

Use your hair conditioner wisely
The purpose of this monthly column is to share my hairdressing experience with you, as I have with my clients over many years. I hope you find it useful and feel free to send in your questions.
CHOOSE WISELY: Hair conditioner does not need to be expensive but it does need to suit your hair type.Conditioners are mainly formulated with oils, moisturisers and other components such as protein, keratin, sunscreen, perfume etc.
The various combinations of all those ingredients are what makes a conditioner suitable for your hair. Only by trying different ones will you find one or two that suit you. It doesn't necessary need to be costly but it does need to be suitable for your hair type ... and do the job.
Conditioning hair is necessary for almost everyone. When clients arrive with knots and/or static in their clean hair, usually fine or long hair, most of the time the reason is that their shampoo is too stripping, they don't use conditioner or they have rinsed it out completely. Conditioners are designed to replace natural oils secreted by the scalp but lost with shampooing.
If you don't like or need to use styling products for your style, conditioning your hair will give your hair a bit more control. The amount used and rinsed out determines how your hair will behave. Here is how you choose the right conditioner and apply it to get the best results for your hair. It's very simple and in some cases a little adjustment can make a big difference.
Leave-in conditioners.
These are designed for natural fine hair, oily roots with dry ends, or in addition to your regular conditioner if your hair is coloured or permed to give the ends extra nourishment, a glossy coating and to de-tangle. They mostly come as a spray but can also come as a light cream applied with the hands on damp hair. If you have very oily roots or knotty ends, this is the ideal product for you as you can aim at spraying the ends only. They are quite light therefore can stay in the hair until the next shampooing. If it seems to make your hair oily, try using less and make sure to avoid the roots. Spray evenly all over your hair and double up on tangles. More will be needed in long hair. Counting the number of pushes or pumps helps to be consistent with the amount you should use each time.
Regular conditioners.
These are designed for normal to dry hair and are formulated to nourish and protect your hair from over-drying between shampoos. As a general rule, conditioners should be rinsed out but I have always advised my clients to stop rinsing when the hair is still a little "slippery" to the touch, even if the instructions say to rinse out thoroughly. This method will help with tangles, static and styling. The amount used will depend on your conditioner's strength and how long or thick your hair is. For short hair, apply in gentle circular movements on the ends, do not scrub the scalp as when shampooing. The natural scalp oils will return a few hours after shampooing. Half to one teaspoon should be sufficient in short hair. In long hair, apply it in two lots of one teaspoon each, ends first then mid-length, a greater amount may be needed for very long hair. Spread evenly on your hands first then apply to "all areas" of your hair, except the top, always start applying on the ends first and work your way through to the mid length avoiding the root area. Work the conditioner into the hair with downward movements, then what is left on your hands should be enough to pat on the top of your head for a very slight coating. Skip the roots all together if they are very oily.
The best way to apply conditioner is to remove as much water as possible after shampooing and towel dry if time permits. Leaving the conditioner in while you finish showering gives it a bit more time to nourish your hair. When rinsing, move your head in different directions to catch all sections of your hair and not just where the shower rose aims. Unlike the squeaky clean rinsing of the shampoo, a little "silky feel" should stay on the hair. This technique is even more beneficial to permed or coloured hair.
Treatments
Hair treatments are basically richer and often thicker than ordinary conditioners. You only need a treatment if your hair is very dry or damaged. These are designed to form a thicker coating on the hair in order to link scales together. Treatments need to be left on the hair at least five to 10 minutes before being rinsed out. For better absorption I often suggest plastic wrapping on the hair and sitting in a sunny spot for 15 to 20 minutes, either inside or outside the house. Treatments are applied and rinsed the same way as regular conditioners.
Tip to avoid split ends
Never "rub" the hair with the towel, instead, wrap the towel around the head and press to absorb water. With long hair, wrap the towel around the ends and mid-length, then twist the towel firmly. Never "rub" your hair between your hands with the towel.
Most experienced hairdressers will be able to help you understand these simple guidelines. Keep in mind that hairdressing is an art as well as a trade, which means that you may hear a variation of opinions and ideas from your own hairdresser.
Contact Denise by emailing your questions to paul.brooks@wanganuichronicle.co.nz