In this monthly column I share my hairdressing experience with you, as I have with my clients over many years. I hope you find it useful, and feel free to send in your questions.
Styling products
Here is an other multiple choice we all face. Finding products that work well
for your hair can be quite exhausting. I always advise my clients, once you find products that work well with your hair, stay with it. You could ask your hairdresser if they have samples, or the friend recommending a product to give you a little amount to try before buying a whole container which, if unsuitable, would end up on your "unused products" shelf collection.
Styling products come in two categories - those used on damp hair to help with style, volume, control or static. The others used on dry hair to help hold the finished style. Some styling products are graded with a "1 to 10" hold factor scale, one being light hold and 10 being strong hold. A light hold factor product is sufficient to control static in a natural "fall into place" style and a strong hold factor product may be helpful for managing more difficult hair or style. This month I will talk about products used on wet hair, and next month products used on dry hair.
Mousse comes as a foam and suits most types of hair. If volume is not needed it can be applied straight on towel dried hair for frizz or static control, then left to dry naturally. For best volume results though, let your hair dry about 60-70 per cent before applying the mousse, especially when using a blow-dryer. The amount to use and the hold factor will depend on your hair texture and how fine, coarse, thin or thick your hair is. A medium hold of 4 to 6 is always a good place to start. For short hair I recommend starting with an amount the size of an egg yolk (after expansion) and gradually increase until you notice a difference and you are happy with the result.
How to use: The mousse container should be well shaken before each use and "held upside down" for releasing. Separate the amount evenly in both hands and gently distribute a bit on all areas of your hair, avoid touching the scalp if your skin is sensitive to products. Brush or comb to spread in the direction of the style, then blow-dry or leave your hair to dry naturally.
Styling lotion or gel sprays are great to use as a root lift for hair that falls flat on the head. If you don't use a blow dryer and you want to create volume you can "fluff" your hair up with your hands as it dries. These products should also eliminate static and make it easier to control, specially fine hair but they also can feel "sticky" if you are using too much. An other good use for it is as a setting lotion prior to setting your hair on rollers.
How to use: Again I recommend to start with smaller amount and increase gradually. For sprays or pumps, count how many times you push the nozzle so you get to know the amount necessary for your hair and style. Lift the ends to spray closer to the roots and apply in small quantities as these will feel too stiff if you use too much. Comb or brush through to spread evenly then proceed to blow dry or leave to dry naturally.
Paste type creams add a bit more shine but can feel sticky and look greasy if you use too much. These are best used for choppy and messy style cuts. These are designed to mould the hair into a specific style and keep it in place. It is good to separate the hair strands and create spikes, wisps or bundles. Many clients like the look but not the feel of it in their hair, in that case, I recommend using it only in certain areas like the fringe, sides or nape to create an effect but if you do use it all over your hair, you probably will have to shampoo it out.
How to use: The paste type products only require a small amount varying from a pea to a coin size and should be rubbed between the hands to heat the product and help spreading easily and evenly onto the hair. These products can often be used in wet or dry hair, depending on the style.
Most experienced hairdressers will be able to help you understand these simple guidelines. Keep in mind that hairdressing is an artistic field as well as a trade, which means that you may hear a variation of opinions and ideas from your own hairdresser.
¦ You can contact Denise by emailing your questions to paul.brooks@wanganuichronicle.co.nz
