In New Zealand, dairy products are more than a basic part of our diet. They contribute to our national identity, and, according to the Dairy Companies Association of New Zealand (DCANZ), dairy is our biggest export earner.
Last winter an article appeared in the Dominion Post and NZ Farmer about three young people who have founded a Silicon Valley-based start-up called Muufri, which intends to produce animal-free milk. They aim for an alternative that will replicate the look, taste, texture, "mouthfeel" and cooking properties of the real thing.
To achieve this they have bio-engineered yeast by adding cow DNA sequences to yeast cells which are then cultured in optimal conditions of temperature and concentration, and programmed to die when their job is done.
The process results in ready-to-harvest milk proteins. Plant-derived fats will also be put through the biotech process to replicate the flavour and make-up of milk fats, while sugars and minerals like calcium will be added separately. The recipe can apparently be tweaked for greater health benefits, using an alternative sugar to lactose for the lactose-intolerant, or leaving cholesterol out altogether. Other types of milk - goat, buffalo, whole, skim - are also viable options.
They compare the procedure to brewing beer or wine. The method will (obviously) eliminate bacteria found in cow's milk, so it won't require pasteurisation or refrigeration and will have a much longer shelf-life than dairy products do. The ability to brew milk locally should reduce the amount of transportation involved and could make the supply safer by at least reducing the scale of manufacturing mishaps or food terrorist threats.
The Muufri people apparently hope to have a market-ready product in three years. They expect the price for it to be higher to start, but eventually it will equal or undersell cow's milk. If they succeed the environmental benefits gained by eliminating cows from milk production could be impressive.
Fonterra's research and development director, Jeremy Hill's said of Muufri: "Fonterra does not see this as a serious threat to the dairy industry."
Primary Industries Minister Nathan Guy said: "I prefer our natural real milk, produced from fantastic New Zealand pastures ... I won't be rushing out to purchase a carton." (This should impress the lactose-intolerant no end).
Victoria University researcher Jason Young, of the Contemporary China Research Centre said: "All through Asia, you can see there's a growing market for green food products - a move away from having a lot of additives and too much processing - and organic food."
I believe Mr Hill's and Mr Guy's responses come from thinking that is firmly planted in the last century. Mr Young is at least thinking in the present. But no marketing campaign can honestly say that cows' milk is "green". As Asians become richer, they are likely to become more savvy and will figure this out.
I also believe they are unwise to be quite so dismissive of possible disruptive industry changes. We live in an age when they are becoming more common.
- Lorna Sutherland has lived in many different places and observes the changes in the natural environment around her.