Fortunately, there
are plenty of hardy crops that thrive in these conditions.
Cabbage is reliable now, preferring full sun and fertile soil. If leaves start to purple, it signals a nitrogen shortage, easily corrected with an organic fertiliser.
Kale, another brassica and now prized as a superfood, grows much like cabbage and matures quickly. It is usable fresh or cooked.
Broccoli, one of the easiest brassicas, rewards patience by sprouting fresh shoots even after the main head is cut, so don’t pull it out too early.
Cauliflower needs the same care and once curds form, folding outer leaves over the heart helps prevent sun damage.
Celery is slower, taking about 100 days, but the homegrown flavour is worth it.
Lettuce, in its many varieties, is ideal for staggered harvests – pick a leaf at a time and let the plant continue producing.
It grows well in pots, troughs or directly in the soil. Spinach and silverbeet are also excellent for early planting.
Silverbeet comes in colourful red- and yellow-stemmed varieties that look as good in the flower bed as they taste in the kitchen.
Carrots and parsnips prefer poor soil that’s low in nitrogen, so sow them where a leafy crop has already grown. Too much nitrogen causes forked roots.
Other crops to get started now include onions, spring onions, garlic, parsley, coriander, celeriac, rocket, mizuna, Chinese cabbage, chicory and more, many of which are available in punnets from garden centres.
Tomatoes and other summer favourites – capsicums, chillies, cucumbers, courgettes and pumpkins – are already in stores.
In warmer or sheltered spots, they can be started under cover in glasshouses, cloches or pots.
But don’t rush into planting outdoors unless you can protect them from late frosts.
In temperate, coastal climates, the end of September is usually considered safe for outdoor tomatoes, beans and corn. Beans in particular fail if sown into cold soil.
For cooler areas and inland, it is recommended to wait till Labour Weekend for the planting of cold-sensitive plants.
In any case, aim for night temperatures consistently above 10C.
Preparing the soil is the first key to success. Remove weeds thoroughly, as invasive types like oxalis, paspalum or couch grass will outcompete vegetables.
If necessary, use a systemic weedkiller; otherwise, dig in hand-pulled weeds to add organic matter. Unsure about a weed? Take a sample to your local garden centre for advice.
Soil health also depends on feeding.
Compost is essential, but choose a quality one rather than cheap filler. Poultry-based composts are excellent, as are sheep pellets and balanced organic fertilisers.
Vegetables are heavy feeders, so replenish nutrients regularly.
Lime should also be applied annually to keep soil slightly alkaline, improving structure and making nutrients more available to plants.
If you lack space – or warmth – pots are a great way to grow some vegetables. Tomatoes, cucumbers and peas grow well in containers, especially with the newer tubs that include water reservoirs and support frames.
Pot culture is perfect for small gardens or patios, with specialist mixes available for vegetables, strawberries and tomatoes.
The main challenges are water and nutrients. Pots dry quickly as roots fill the space, so frequent watering is vital.
Sitting pots in saucers or partly burying them in the garden bed can help retain moisture.
Nutrients are also used up fast, so fertilise little and often to avoid leaching.
Growing your own vegetables is both rewarding and practical.
Starting with hardy crops now sets the stage for abundant harvests later, while pots and glasshouses let you sneak in an early tomato or cucumber.
With good soil preparation, regular feeding and a watchful eye on temperatures, spring is the perfect time to get growing.
So give it a go, growing your own vegetables is rewarding and fun.
Gareth Carter is the general manager of Springvale Garden Centre in Whanganui.
