Wine: Grape to spice up your life

When people find out that I write about wine there's a fairly common reaction.

They'll say, "Oh, what an awful job!" (Nudge, nudge, wink, wink.) Then they'll ask, "So what's your favourite one then?" To which I'll reply, "That's like asking me to choose between my children!" But the other day when the question was asked I caught myself blurting out "gewurztraminer!"

When they asked why, it was like the floodgates opened. What's not to love about this variety? If gewurztraminer was a rock star, I would be its groupie. If it were a religion, I'd worship it every day. If I'm at a restaurant it's like the cheesecake of the wine list; if I see it I have to have it.

Pronounced "gar-verts-tra-meener", it's an exotically perfumed, intensely fruity white wine which, despite having its spiritual home in the opposite hemisphere, has found a loving home here in almost every wine region in New Zealand. After an unsettled period in the 1990s, it is great to see gewurztraminer making a comeback; plantings have grown from a mere 85ha in 1998 to close to 300ha today. Maybe it's because of the rapid rise in popularity of Asian/eastern-style cuisine in New Zealand? Who knows? But it is hands-down the most perfect match for Thai green curry chicken.

At last count, I think there were around 10 empties, all gewurz, all different labels, sitting in my recycling bin, but not everyone's a fan. I've got friends, some of them winemakers who think I'm mad because they can't stand the stuff; "blousy, sickly, flowery and poofy" are some of the polite words that spring to mind when recalling our arguments.

But they don't know what they're talking about.

Translated it means "spicy wine" in German and I love that heady whiff of Turkish delight, toffee apples and lychee that you get in the great ones, along with those spicy, tropical, juicy flavours.

I love that delicate balance between sweet and acid, and I adore the way good gewurztraminer can transform spicy food into something less scary. It always brightens my mood and it also happens to be one of the only white wines my husband will happily drink.

The other thing I love about it is that it is so recognisable no matter if it's been made in a sweet or dry style. Once you've tried one or two you'll never have a problem picking it out in a blind tasting ever again.

So why isn't it more popular? Like most aromatics - the good ones aren't cheap (although there are good examples around $15-$20), and maybe people are reluctant to try it because it's a bit tricky to pronounce (no-one wants to look like a womble in front of a waiter). But I was in a restaurant the other day and I overheard a man say "Um, I'll have a glass of the gee wizz", and I thought that was great.

So here's a selection from my latest gewurztraminer tasting adventures and I really hope you'll try them too.

Dry River Bunch Selection Martinborough Gewurztraminer 2011 $50

Glossy, golden and gorgeous in the glass. There's a honeyed, raisin-like, yellow plum and peach character in this wine, which also offers scrumptious, grilled peach anise and honeyed flavours. One sip of this wine will offer incredibly silky texture and a decadent, indulgent length of flavour. No question, a magical example. www.dryriver.co.nz

Misha's Vineyard 'The Gallery' Gewurztraminer 2012 $31

Sweetly perfumed with nectarine and lychee, soft, ginger, cinnamon and hints of honeysuckle. What I really love is the succulent, cleansing burst of flavour and its vibrant, dry and shoulder-shaking tastiness on the finish. Gorgeous. www.mishasvineyard.com

Haythornthwaite Susan Martinborough Dry Gewurztraminer 2010 $28

Made by Martinborough's gewurztraminer specialist, this is a lean, mineral-driven, higher-alcohol style with a seam of fennel and white peach. A great food wine, but very different to their other "Susan" gewurz, which is a traditional, sweeter-style wine. www.haythornthwaite.co.nz

Waimea Nelson Gewurztraminer 2011 $24

A triumph of tongue-tingling, tropical fruit, lychee, honeysuckle and rose petal flavours. No surprises as to why this wine won the trophy for Champion Gewurztraminer at the Royal Easter Show 2012 - it's just fabulous.

Opulent but elegant at the same time, just superb, an absolute joy to drink. www.waimeaestates.co.nz

Ataahua Waipara Gewurztraminer 2011 $22

Crafted from young vines grown in a tiny, North Canterbury site, these grapes have been hand-picked and "foot-stomped" before the juice is left to soak on its skins for three days to extract textural complexity. Dry, spicy and edged with lemongrass, lychee and has a zingy-fresh finish.

Good stuff indeed. www.ataahuawine.co.nz

Lawson's Dry Hills Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2011 $23

One of New Zealand's best-known gewurztraminer producers has released a wine with subtle spices on the nose and boasts a palate packed with lipsmacking acidity, warming alcohol and a whack of white peach and a whole lotta lusciousness. www.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz

Vinoptima Reserve Gewurztraminer 2008 $96

This new release from New Zealand's crown prince of gewurztraminer from his single-variety winery situated in Gisborne's Ormond region is simply sublime. Scented with grilled peach, turkish delight and rose caramel, this wine has a seamless elegance, cleansing sweetness and is powerfully structured.

Amazing. If I could give it six stars I would. www.vinoptima.co.nz