Pickling is one of the earliest forms of food preservation and has been traced to Mesopotamia more than 4500 years ago.
The Greeks and Romans developed recipes for pickling based on a mixture of salt, olive oil, honey and fermented wine. In particular they enjoyed pickled olives.
When the Roman Empire collapsed, food preservation techniques were almost lost. Fortunately some preserves continued to be prepared in monasteries.
In the 11th century, culinary arts were revived and pickling recipes started to become popular again.
It wasn't until the 14th century that a recipe was published for "compost", a combination of finely chopped vegetables, vinegar and spices cooked to a mush, more like the relishes and chutneys we know today.
Vegetables or fruits that are to be pickled are usually left whole or sliced in large pieces. Many vegetables, such as gherkins and small onions, need to be salted first to draw out the excess moisture. Too much water can cause the pickle to ferment.
Chutneys evolved from pickles. These are more like jams than pickles, although honey or sugar, vinegar and salt are still used as the preserving agents. Spices have been introduced.
Relishes generally do not contain as much sugar as chutneys and can be of two types - those that are sealed and can be kept for several months in a cool dry place, or refrigerator relishes that need to be consumed within a week.
Because of the acid in pickles and relishes, use stainless steel or enamel preserving pans to prevent the preserves from darkening or being tainted by reactions with other metals. Use spotlessly clean equipment and jars.
Hints:
Only use produce that is in perfect condition.
For best colour and flavour, make small amounts at a time.
Store preserves in a cool, dark place.
To sterilise the jars, first wash them in hot soapy water, dry with a clean cloth and heat in a 120C oven for 15 minutes.
RECIPES
PEAR, CRAISIN & GINGER CHUTNEY
Excellent served with cold meats or tasty cheese such as Kapiti Awa Blue.
10 cups cored, peeled and chopped pears
4 cups sugar
1 cup each: craisins, chopped crystallised ginger
3 cups cider vinegar
1 tsp each: salt, ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp each: ground allspice, ground cloves
Place all ingredients in a large stainless steel saucepan. Bring to the boil, stirring often.
Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thick, about one-and-a-half hours.
Run a wooden spoon through the centre of the chutney. If an open track stays behind the spoon then it is thick enough.
Pour into hot sterilised jars and seal. Makes 7 cups.
SWEET PICKLED ONIONS
Pickled onions can be made at any time of the year providing small onions are available.
1.2kg small pickling-sized onions
8 cups boiling water
3/4 cup plain salt
3 cups cider vinegar
1 cup each: cold water, white sugar
4-8 small red chillies, seeded
1 tsp yellow mustard seeds
Peel onions in a sink of cold water. Place onions in a bowl and cover with the boiling water and salt, stirring to dissolve salt. Stand overnight or for several hours. Drain and rinse well in cold water.
In a large saucepan, combine vinegar, water, sugar, chillies and mustard seeds. Cover and boil for five minutes. Add onions and simmer gently for five minutes. Pack onions into hot sterilised jars, cover with hot liquid and seal. Makes about 1.5 litres.
TOMATO & CHILLI CHUTNEY
1 large (350g) red onion
1kg tomatoes, chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely sliced
8 red chillies, seeded if preferred, and chopped
1 tbsp grated root ginger
1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 cup red wine vinegar or cider vinegar
2 star anise
1 tbsp paprika
Place all ingredients in a large, heavy-based pan. Bring to the boil, reduce heat then simmer for about one hour. Remove star anise.
Use a hand-held blender to mix the ingredients until chopped but not pureed.
Simmer until thick and shiny. Pour into sterilised jars and seal. Makes 5 cups.
COURGETTE RELISH
Chop the vegetables in a food processor if preferred.
750g courgettes, finely diced
1 & 1/2 tbsp plain salt
3 large apples, chopped
4 onions, chopped
2 red chillies, seeded and diced
2 cups white or malt vinegar
250g raisins, chopped
1 cup sugar
1/2 tsp each: ground ginger, turmeric, coriander
Place courgettes in a large strainer and sprinkle with the salt. Stand for two hours, rinse under cold water and pat dry with paper towels.
Combine courgettes in a large saucepan with apples, onions, chillies, sugar and spices, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Bring to the boil. Simmer, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thick.
Pour into hot sterilised jars and seal when cold. Makes about 8 cups.