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Home / The Listener / Life

Weekend wine guide: Wine-making alchemy is about experimenting with simple tools

Michael Cooper
By Michael Cooper
Wine writer·New Zealand Listener·
30 Jan, 2025 04:00 PM2 mins to read

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Colere’s grapes are all hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous (“wild”) yeasts. Photo / Getty Images

Colere’s grapes are all hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous (“wild”) yeasts. Photo / Getty Images

‘Culture begins at the farm, not in the opera house,” believes winemaker Julian Richards. “Fermentation and experimentation, like fire and simple tools, are some of the most basic transformative processes that we can use in life, that form the basis of human culture.”

Richards has worked at several of New Zealand’s most respected and innovative wineries, including Seresin, Pyramid Valley, Millton and Dog Point. Under his own brand, Colere, he currently operates as a “micro-négociant … seeking out small, unique parcels of the highest quality, certified organic/biodynamic grapes”.

Colere’s latest releases were grown in the Ashmore and Wrekin vineyards, in the Southern Valleys of Marlborough. The grapes are all hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous (“wild”) yeasts. The wines are matured on their yeast lees, with minimal use of sulphites, and are bottled without fining or filtering.

“Wine is from magicians, not machines,” says Richards. His best wines are truly magical.

Colere Ashmore Vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay 2020

★★★★★

Delicious drinking from now onwards, this wine is full of personality. It was mostly handled in stainless steel tanks, but 30% was moved to seasoned oak puncheons towards the end of fermentation. Fragrant and full-bodied, it has concentrated, vibrant, peachy, citrusy flavours, finely integrated oak, and impressive complexity. A vigorous wine, it’s still unfolding. (13.5% alc/vol) $57

Colere Holon Marlborough Chardonnay 2020

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★★★★½

Unlike its stablemate, this characterful, complex wine was fermented in contact with the grapes’ skins. Light gold, it is mouthfilling and savoury, with strong, peachy, citrusy flavours, mealy, leesy, biscuity notes, fresh acidity, a gentle touch of tannin (from the skins), and a dry finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $52

Discover more

Weekend wine guide: Essential Marlborough

16 Jan 04:00 PM

Weekend wine guide: Hans-on approach

19 Dec 04:00 PM

Weekend wine guide: Cheap & cheerful Aussie wines arrive in time for summer

05 Dec 04:00 PM

Weekend wine guide: After 20 years, Dog Point Vineyard has plenty to celebrate

28 Nov 04:00 PM

Colere Ashmore Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2020

★★★★★

This classy red was matured for over a year in a 2:1 mix of tanks and seasoned oak puncheons. Ruby hued, it is fragrant, savoury and supple, with refined tannins and strong cherry, plum, herb and spice flavours, showing excellent ripeness, complexity and harmony. Already delicious, it should be at its best 2026+. (13.5% alc/vol) $65

Wine of the week

Colere The Wrekin Vineyard Marlborough Chenin Blanc 2021

★★★★★

This distinctive, invitingly scented wine was fermented with the use of old oak puncheons. Bright, light yellow/green, it is weighty, fleshy and sweet-fruited, with a strong sense of youthful energy, impressive richness and complexity, finely balanced acidity and a dry, long finish. Best drinking 2026+. (14% alc/vol) $57

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