Looking for something different? Blank Canvas, in Marlborough, and Alpha Domus, in Hawke’s Bay, are family-controlled wineries that are well worth getting to know, producing wines of notable quality that are also full of personality.
Alpha Domus Cumulus Blanc de Blancs Méthode Traditionnelle NV
★★★★★
A stimulating aperitif, this highly distinctive bubbly is from mature chardonnay vines in the Bridge Pā Triangle. Notably fragrant, it shows excellent intensity and complexity, with strong, vigorous, peachy, yeasty, toasty flavours and a very long, bone-dry finish. (12% alc/vol) $33
Blank Canvas Abstract Three Rows Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2023
★★★★★
Designed as an ageworthy “savoury blanc”, this refined wine was hand-harvested at Dillons Point and fermented and matured on its yeast lees for 15 months in French oak puncheons. Ripely scented, mouthfilling and sweet-fruited, it has deep, vibrant, tropical-fruit flavours, enriched by a gentle seasoning of biscuity oak, fresh acidity, excellent complexity and a dry, sustained finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $55
Blank Canvas Settlement Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2021
★★★★★
This powerful red was hand-picked from 20-year-old vines in the Omaka Valley, barrel-aged and bottled unfiltered. Full-coloured and weighty, it is very savoury and complex, with concentrated cherry, spice and nut flavours, and good tannin backbone. Set for a long life, it should break into full stride 2027+. (13% alc/vol) $60
Blank Canvas Anthem Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir 2023
★★★★★
Enticingly perfumed, this single-vineyard red was hand-harvested at Gibbston from 23-year-old vines. Full, bright ruby, it is intensely varietal, with a lovely array of cherry, spice, herb and nut flavours, woven with fresh acidity, supple tannins and a savoury, complex, lingering finish. A delicious, silky-textured wine, it’s already drinking well, but it’s ageworthy, too. (13.5% alc/vol) $75
Alpha Domus The Aviator 2020
★★★★★
This classy wine is a marriage of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and malbec, grown in the Bridge Pā Triangle. Deep and still youthful in colour, it is weighty, fragrant, rich and savoury, with concentrated, almost lush blackcurrant, plum, spice, nut and coffee flavours, complex and vigorous, with good tannin backbone. (14% alc/vol) $85
Wine of the week
Alpha Domus Beatrix Sparkling Rosé NV
★★★★
Sold in packs of four cans, this highly attractive, non-vintage Hawke’s Bay wine is “fresh organic fizz”, based on merlot. Pink/pale orange, it is light-bodied and lively, with strong, crisp strawberry and peach flavours, and a gently yeasty, basically dry finish. Instantly appealing. (8.9% alc/vol) $34 ($8.50 per 250ml can)
