For many wines, it’s easy to find something to niggle about. Maybe it lacks the depth of flavour expected in its price category or, like many supposedly “dry” sauvignon blancs, it has a noticeable splash of sweetness. Maybe it tastes of slightly unripe grapes, or the fruit flavours are overwhelmed by oak.
I have no such reservations about the wines reviewed below. These are classy, satisfying wines, finely poised and downright delicious.
Hawkshead Central Otago Pinot Blanc 2024
★★★★★
This weighty, sweet-fruited wine was grown principally at Pisa, in the Cromwell basin. A top example of this classic variety, it has deep, vibrant, peachy, gently spicy flavours, finely balanced acidity, and a basically dry, persistent finish. Drink now or cellar. (13.5% alc/vol) $30-36
Black Estate Home North Canterbury Cabernet Franc 2023
★★★★★
Certified organic, this compelling red was estate-grown at Omihi and matured in clay amphorae. Deeply coloured, it is mouthfilling, with concentrated, vibrant blackcurrant, red berry and spice flavours, a hint of dark chocolate, supple tannins, and a finely structured, very harmonious finish. Full of personality. (14% alc/vol) $50-$55
Mondillo Central Otago Pinot Noir 2024
★★★★★
This impressive, very youthful wine was estate-grown at Bendigo and aged for 11 months in French oak barriques (25% new). Bright ruby, it is full-bodied, sweet-fruited and savoury, with very good density of vibrant cherry, plum and spice flavours, finely integrated oak, fresh acidity and the structure to age well for many years. (13.5% alc/vol) $43-$50
Valli Bendigo Central Otago Pinot Noir 2023
★★★★★
This classy red should flourish for a decade or longer. Fragrant and weighty, it has highly concentrated cherry, plum and spice flavours, ripe, complex and savoury. A serious “brooding” red, it reveals notable density and lovely harmony. (13.5% alc/vol) $85
Whitehaven “Greg” Southern Valleys Single Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2021
★★★★★
Hand-picked in the Wrekin Vineyard and barrel-aged for 10 months, this is a top example of the region’s pinot noir. Deep ruby, it is mouthfilling, with rich cherry, plum and spice flavours, showing impressive complexity and good tannin backbone. Built for a long life, it’s certified organic. (13.5% alc/vol) $60
Wine of the week
Smith & Sheth Cru Wairau Sauvignon Blanc 2024
★★★★★
This standout Marlborough wine was harvested from mature vines at Renwick and Dillons Point, and fermented and lees-aged in stainless steel tanks. Ripely scented and weighty, with lovely mouth feel, it has vibrant, rich, tropical fruit flavours, good complexity and a sustained, dry, rounded finish. Benchmark stuff. (13.5% alc/vol) $30
