Every Greek island boasts its own version of this recipe. Known as pastitsada, on Corfu this dish takes on a special character thanks to the spetseriko (local spice mix). The name derives from the Italian word spezie, meaning spices.
Traditionally, this blend was prepared by pharmacist assistants, locally known as spetsierides, particularly in the historic Karmela’s Pharmacy in the main town of Corfu, where locals would mainly source it for their Easter, Christmas and Sunday cooking. During summer they would also add it to spice up their local sykomaida (dried fig salami). Paprika is important here, both sweet and spicy. Fennel seeds, cinnamon, cumin, clove, nutmeg, bay leaves, allspice and black pepper are also used. Some blends include ginger, too.
Pastitsada was traditionally made with cockerel, but nowadays beef is used more often. The meat is served over bucatini-like pasta, but almost any kind of pasta works. Otherwise, rice or fried potatoes are delicious here, too. Notable in this recipe is the vinegar, which is used aside from the wine. Vinegar plays a significant role in the Venetian essence of Corfiot cuisine, adding its distinctive touch to many dishes. I like to add a bit of orange zest and basil in the stew and I use sweet wine to avoid sugar. If you use a dry wine, add a bit of sugar to taste. And the basil may be replaced with parsley.
Pastitsada
Beef stewed in a spicy tomato sauce served over pasta
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
• 1kg beef for stewing, cut into small portions of about 70-100g each
• 60ml olive oil
• 2 large onions, peeled and finely chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
• 3 bay leaves
• 1 tsp spetseriko spice mix (see below)
• 1 tsp tomato paste
• 20ml (4 tsp) red wine vinegar
• 120ml sweet red wine, such as Mavrodaphne
• 1 thin sliver orange zest
• 1 small basil sprig, plus extra to serve
• 250ml tomato pulp or passata
• 250ml hot vegetable or meat stock or water
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the pasta
• 500g bucatini (or any other pasta)
• 1-2 tbsp olive oil
• Grated kefalotiri, pecorino or parmesan
For the spetseriko spice mix
• 10 bay leaves
• ½ tbsp chilli flakes
• 1 tsp fennel seeds
• ½ tsp cumin seeds
• 2 tbsp sweet paprika
• ½ tbsp spicy paprika
• ½ tbsp ground cinnamon
• ½ tsp ground nutmeg
• ½ tsp ground cloves
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
• ½ tsp ground allspice
Method
First, make the spetseriko. Add the bay leaves, chilli flakes, fennel seeds and cumin to a dry pan over a medium heat and toss for 1-1½ minutes until lightly toasted and fragrant. Crush the toasted spices to a fine powder in a mortar and pestle or grinder. Add the ground spices and store in a jar for up to 6 months.
Season the beef with salt and pepper and let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking.
Place a large shallow pot over a medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and, once hot, brown the meat on all sides. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a platter.
In the same pot, add another tablespoon of olive oil and sauté the onions with a bit of salt. Add the garlic, bay leaves and the spetseriko spice mix, stirring briefly. A few seconds later, add the tomato paste and stir gently. Return the browned meat to the pot, pour in the vinegar, and after a minute, pour in the wine. Allow the alcohol to evaporate for a couple of minutes, then pour in the tomato pulp and hot broth, and add in the orange zest and basil sprig. Reduce the heat to low, cover with a lid, and gently simmer for 50-60 minutes or until the meat is very tender and the sauce has thickened. Discard the bay leaves, basil sprig and orange zest.
Cook the pasta, drain and add a splash of olive oil to coat.
Serve the beef on top of the pasta, then sprinkle with some grated cheese and extra ground black pepper. If you like, scatter over a handful of chopped basil.
Tomato soup with rice
Comforting yet quick to prepare, this tasty soup hails from Tilos, a small mountainous island that is part of the Dodecanese, nestled between Rhodes and Kos. Tilos is known for its serene surroundings, white-washed houses and narrow alleys. This soup, known locally as tsouvras, is traditionally made with rice, bulgur (cracked) wheat or trahanas, but it can also be made with quinoa or any small pasta. I top it with yoghurt, chopped basil and a handful of pine nuts. (For a vegan version, use a plant-based Greek-style yoghurt or omit altogether.) This soup can be enjoyed either hot or chilled.
Vegan / Gluten Free
Serves 4
Ingredients
• 70g short-grained white rice
• 1kg tomatoes (can use canned)
• 70ml olive oil
• 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
• 2-3 fresh thyme springs
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 whole dried red chilli or fresh red chilli (optional)
• Pinch of sugar (optional)
• 1 heaped tsp tomato paste
• 800ml-1 litre hot vegetable stock
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
• 2-3 tbsp strained Greek-style yoghurt
• 2 tbsp chopped toasted pine nuts
• 2 tbsp chopped basil
• Olive oil
Method
Rinse the rice under cold running water, then drain and set aside to dry. If using fresh tomatoes, blanch in hot water, then remove the skins and seeds. Blend until smooth. You should have about 800-850ml of tomato purée. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large pan with a lid over a medium heat. Add the onion with a pinch of salt and sauté, stirring continuously, until the onions soften. Add the garlic, thyme, bay leaf, whole dried or fresh chilli and sugar (if using), then stir for one further minute. Stir in the tomato paste. Pour the reserved tomato purée into the pan along with 800ml of the hot vegetable stock. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Cover the pan and bring the contents to a simmer, then reduce the heat and let everything cook gently, covered, for about 25-30 minutes, adding more stock if needed. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs, bay leaf and chilli. Using a stick blender, blitz the soup in the pan until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Add the rice and cook over a low heat for a further 10-15 minutes or until the rice is cooked. Ladle into deep bowls and top with 1 or 2 teaspoons of Greek yoghurt, toasted pine nuts, chopped basil, a drizzle of olive oil and plenty of black pepper.
Cheesy artichoke gratin
Tinos holds a special place in my heart and so does its cuisine. This beautiful island yields exceptional wines and the most flavourful wild artichokes. One stand-out local recipe is aginaropita, an artichoke pie that is usually made without pastry and leans more towards a soufflé or a gratin, enriched with vegetables, eggs and cheeses. Traditional versions often have thin slices of stale bread, lending a delightful bread pudding-like texture. One of my favourite versions of this dish comes from Eleni’s colourful taverna, which has been a beloved spot on the island for decades. I’ve adapted the recipe by using frozen artichokes and substituting local cheeses with more readily available ones.
Vegetarian / Gluten Free
Serves 6
Ingredients
• 6 trimmed artichokes, fresh or frozen
• 80ml olive oil
• 1 large leek, chopped (green part too, if tender)
• 1 onion, chopped
• 3 spring onions, chopped (green parts too)
• 2 carrots, diced
• 2 courgettes, diced
• 4-5 tbsp chopped parsley
• 4-5 tbsp chopped dill
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the sauce
• 4 eggs
• 100ml crème fraîche
• 200ml whole (full-fat) milk
• 150g parmesan, grated (shredded)
• 160g anthotiro or ricotta
• 150g feta, well crumbled or grated
Method
Chop the artichokes into rough 1.5cm pieces. Brush a deep baking dish (30x23cm) with olive oil. Place a large, deep pan over a medium-high heat. Add the olive oil, then the leek, onion and spring onions and sauté until soft. Add the carrots and courgettes, then season with a little salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until softened. There should be no liquid left in the pan; if there is, drain it off or cook for a bit longer until it evaporates.
Transfer the vegetables to the oiled baking dish, spreading them out evenly with the back of a spoon or a spatula.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs until frothy and then mix in the crème fraîche and milk. Set aside half of the parmesan for the topping, then stir all three cheeses into the sauce. Pour the cheese sauce over the vegetables and scatter over the remaining parmesan. Bake the gratin in the hot oven for 50-60 minutes or until the sauce is bubbling and the top is golden.
An edited extract from The Greek Islands Cookbook by Carolina Doriti (Murdoch Books RRP $45).
