There is a renewed interest in vintage clothes right now — thrifting is (mostly) cheap, combats fast fashion, and is a fun way to express individual style. Carly Gibbs asks professional thrifters what’s hot right now, and discovers that more men are joining women in the shopping trend.
Nathan Morris never thought he’d find it cool to wear a knitted “David Bain”-style sweater in various shades of brown.
But then there’s a lot the 25-year-old, who has a double major in criminology and psychology, did not expect when he delved into the world of pre-owned fashion.
Having developed a knack for thrifting as a poor Victoria University student, he made his hobby full-time 13 months ago.
He sells handpicked men’s vintage streetwear, sports and music apparel from the 90s and early 00s on Trade Me and his Instagram page, nates_rates_vintage.
The majority of his clientele is aged 18 to mid-20s.
One of his finds, a faded Skid Row T-shirt he picked up at a garage sale during a trip to America last year, sold to an American reseller for $520, but mostly, he sells his pieces for $25 to $45.
Over the past decade, thrifting has grown from op shop drop-offs to Instagram accounts set up to resell vintage clothes.
The fashion industry is changing, with dedicated vintage traders at the forefront of the movement.
Trade Me marketing and brand director Sally Feinson says vintage is “becoming more in vogue than ever” with all genders.
Luxury watches are Trade Me’s most searched item in the “fashion circular economy”. The popularity of clothing search terms is seasonal, and local designers continue to be firm favourites, Feinson says.
“Kiwis are mindful of climate change and want to reduce their carbon footprint.”
And taking inspiration from old-school fashion is huge.
During the festivities for Te Matatini 2023, the tailoring of the men of Ngāti Whātua Ōrākei caught viewers’ attention, with one clip shared on TikTok racking up over two million views within 24 hours.
Some commented that the look was a throwback to an earlier, more dapper, period.
Men are showing an increasing interest in fashion, Morris believes, and the vintage scene has blown up — but with that has come more competition.
For this reason, he has diversified into other vintage items including video games, DVDs and cameras.
However, fashion is still his main earner and the stigma of men caring about their appearance and clothing trends has changed thanks to social media.
“You don’t need to go to a shopping mall — a couple of clicks of a button and you can buy what you want.”
For Rotorua fashion graduate Jared Witana, 29, thrifting for clothes has become a whole new experience since he lost nearly 50kg through diet changes.
“There’s so much more for me to choose from. I then go ahead and alter those clothes and make them my own.
“With the availability of thrift shops, people can develop a sense of style where you walk into town and someone isn’t dressed exactly the way they are.”
Be uniquely you
Kim Devcich has a favourite pair of beige workman overalls.
“I look like I’m off to change someone’s spark plugs,” the owner of Nine Lives quips.
However, she brings glamour, adding Gucci platform sandals.
Her Mount Maunganui vintage store is full of eccentricities. The items tell a story and come with irregularities of sizing and condition, but that’s the thrill of the hunt.
“Everyone that comes in has a good time,” she says of the in-person service she’s operated for 10 years.
Outside the changing rooms is a wall of bags that is eye candy for the vintage hound.
Adorning clothes racks are threads of yesteryear: old-school Expozay; Marilyn Sainty, Kate Sylvester, Nom*D and Zambesi; handmade items created before the invention of overlockers; velvet gowns that sweep the floor; dresses with applique; cowboy boots; 1960s prints; 1940s silk nighties; and a jumpsuit made out of vintage tea towels.
Then there are Levi’s jeans and skirts; fur coats; knits; Doc Martens; jewellery; shoes; and “yummy bags”: Alexander Wang, Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton.
“Vintage doesn’t have to be immaculate, but it’s got to be wearable,” Devich advises, shimmering a hand over many colours on a hanger.
Her interest in vintage began when she was a nanny in New York and her boss was an antique dealer. On days off she’d help clear out estates, including wardrobes.
“I love my vintage. It’s the playful side of fashion. It’s always going to be on-trend,” she says, adding that it also promotes sustainability and our responsibility to the planet to shop ethically.
Pre-owned items in the shop and its website range in price from $23 to $1000. She handpicks vintage within New Zealand and overseas, and designer wear is consignment, splitting profits 50/50 with the seller.
One private wardrobe collection she received included vintage high school bloomers and bras.
And she recently sold a 100-year-old dress belonging to an elderly former socialite, to a teenage girl for her school ball.
She frequently adds to her wardrobe as well.
“I did that this morning. I had a 1970s three-piece polyester suit come in. I’ll probably squeak when I walk but it’s fabulous and fits me perfectly.
“It’s a bit like being an alcoholic in a bottle store working here.”
Store assistant Melissa “Missy” Vanstone likewise succumbs to temptation: “Clothing is like putting on or having a mood, every day, so you’ve got to have a huge wardrobe to keep your options open.”
Affordable style
Adding to the lure is a bargain, says Tauranga designer and stylist Nicole Georgia McCartie.
While op-shops are not dedicated vintage shops, the likes of New Zealand’s 130 Salvation Army Family Stores have a small selection of designer and vintage clothing.
A spokesperson says items are priced to sell and help fund valuable work in the community “giving a second life to hundreds of tonnes of items that would otherwise be sent to landfills”.
McCartie, who owns Native Collections NZ, is running her second fashion show this year showcasing vintage wear.
Elemental is a fashion installation on November 25 in Mount Maunganui, celebrating upcycled and vintage clothing in the costume range through performances and a fashion show, reflecting the four elements of the earth.
As well as a vintage evolution, she says there’s a revitalisation in learning how to alter and re-work secondhand pieces that are unwearable.
Supporting local and slow fashion
Saving vintage treasures is something Dianne Ludwig believes is important, as is buying locally for low carbon miles.
The 60-year-old believes op shops shouldn’t feel bad if they raise prices on special pieces.
“Why should they rock out at the same price as a cheap piece ... made in unethical conditions? We need to start valuing our New Zealand vintage.”
Ludwig, who owns one of the more popular Kiwi Instagram vintage outlets, welcomeback_slowfashion, also helped establish the NZ Fashion Museum. Her clients are lovers of fashion “but never fast fashion”.
What’s hot varies every season, she says.
“What sells well with vintage tends to share a similar silhouette or aesthetic to what’s popular.
“In recent times the most popular pieces tend to be those that are more casual and less formal. Vintage denim always sells well. And this winter I’ve been selling a lot of classic vintage trenchcoats, 1980s jumpsuits, and minimalist aesthetic vintage wool coats and blazers.
“Vintage pieces by notable designers and labels also sell well, as so many followers are savvy about collecting some of New Zealand’s best former labels, like El Jay, Colin Cole, or more recent designers like Alexander Owen.”
What makes an excellent vintage piece is something that makes a fashion statement but is still highly wearable - “and isn’t too tiny”.
“It needs to fit more than a size 6. I also love pieces that I can tell the story of the label or prior owner’s history so buyers are getting a back story to the garment. They also get to be the custodian and add to that history.”
She says there has been a conscious shift in attitude that people want more sustainable clothing, and the most affordable way to do that is thrifting.
Social media has helped propel that too.
Vintage has become much more of a holy grail now that op shops are so “crammed with cheap fast-fashion discards”.
“When you get a vintage piece you’re getting something special.”
Thrifting tips
- Style vintage by mixing it with contemporary pieces or accessories.
- Value for money is buying vintage that you know you will wear a lot.
- Some vintage has damage or staining, which may mean you don’t reach for it. Look for good quality and classic timeless cuts that fit well.
- Buy to keep. Having a tonne of clothes is never that satisfying and is often a cluttered burden. Having less and buying well can be a much richer experience.
Source: Dianne Ludwig