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Home / Northern Advocate

Ōpua rated NZ's most hospitable town

By Peter de Graaf
Reporter·Northern Advocate·
4 Oct, 2020 05:00 PM5 mins to read

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Opua, once home to a bustling port, still boasts the Far North's biggest marina and marine industry hub. Photo / Michael Cunningham

Opua, once home to a bustling port, still boasts the Far North's biggest marina and marine industry hub. Photo / Michael Cunningham

A small Bay of Islands town has been named New Zealand's most hospitable destination.

Ōpua, population about 700, eclipsed its better-known neighbours — and every other place in the country — by topping a New Zealand hospitality index compiled by global accommodation network Airbnb.

Manuela Gmuer-Hornell, who represents Ōpua on the Bay of Islands-Whangaroa Community Board, was delighted to see her home town put on the map.

''It's nice that Ōpua gets some recognition. In the past it's always been a no-town between Paihia and Russell, or the town where you catch the ferry to go somewhere else.''

Cyclists on a popular section of Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail near Ōpua. Photo / Kennett Brothers
Cyclists on a popular section of Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail near Ōpua. Photo / Kennett Brothers
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Gmuer-Hornell said the rankings were based on people's experience of staying in small accommodation businesses, which proved that individuals made a difference to a town.

''It's a very friendly town. I've been here a long time and I love it.''

The list is based on hospitality ratings given by Airbnb guests. Two other Northland destinations made the top 10 with Dargaville at 8 and Haruru, also in the Bay of Islands, at 10. Canterbury was the only other region with more than one spot in the top 10.

NZ's most hospitable places

1. Ōpua, Northland
2. Katikati, Bay of Plenty
3. Rolleston, Canterbury
4. Darfield, Canterbury
5. Matamata, Waikato
6. Ashburton, Canterbury
7. Gore, Southland
8. Dargaville, Northland
9. Cambridge, Waikato
10. Haruru, Northland

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Frank Leadley, a former Bay of Islands College principal and long-time Ōpua patriot, said the ranking was well deserved.

''It's a lovely place with caring people. It's got an ambience that sets it apart from a lot of other places.''

Leadley said the town had a long tradition of welcoming visitors, especially international sailors who, until Covid, made Ōpua their first port of call in New Zealand.

The town would have even more going for it once the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway was extended to Ōpua and the steam ferry Minerva was fully restored, making a steam train to steam boat excursion that was unique in the world.

Ōpua is the base for Bay of Islands Sailing Week, a major regatta in which small-town hospitality plays an important part. Photo / Will Calver
Ōpua is the base for Bay of Islands Sailing Week, a major regatta in which small-town hospitality plays an important part. Photo / Will Calver

Ōpua identity Myra Larcombe, 93, said the town had changed a lot over the years but was still a small, friendly community.

''Plus wherever you go in Ōpua you get a lovely view, there's still lots of bush around and always something going on at the wharf.''

A number of well-known Kiwis have made Ōpua their home, including the influential potter and painter Yvonne Rust. It was the first place former Prime Minister John Key's parents lived in New Zealand after his mother fled Austria in World War II. Margaret Lange, sister of the late Prime Minister David Lange, still teaches at Ōpua School.

Things to to do in Ōpua

Ōpua isn't just a friendly place to stay, it also offers visitors plenty of activities, many of which cost little or nothing.

■ Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail
The trail's most popular section starts at Ōpua, next to the boat yard, and follows the former railway line along the river to the aptly named Long Bridge at Taumarere (current end point of Bay of Islands Vintage Railway) and from there to Kawakawa, a distance of 11km. The trail is open to walkers but dogs must be on a lead.

■ Ōpua-Paihia Coastal Walkway
A scenic 5.5km walk along the coast, through bush and over a mangrove boardwalk, starting on Beechy St by the community hall. The energetic can make it a 20km loop walk on by catching a passenger ferry to Russell and following the track to Ōkiato, then hopping on the car ferry back to Opua.

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Stella Schmid of Papatūānuku Earth Mother Tours with Tane Tukaha, a 700-year-old kauri in Ōpua Forest. Photo / Peter de Graaf
Stella Schmid of Papatūānuku Earth Mother Tours with Tane Tukaha, a 700-year-old kauri in Ōpua Forest. Photo / Peter de Graaf

■ Ōpua Forest bush walks
Bush walks in the area include Ōpua Kauri Walk and the Oromahoe Traverse, both of which start on Oromahoe Rd. Stella Schmid, of Papatūānuku Earth Mother Tours, offers a guided tour for those who want to immerse themselves more deeply in the realm of Tāne.

■ Ōpua Community Hall
The community-owned hall, near the end of Beechy St, hosts regular events including a lively market day.

■ NZ's cheapest cruise
Foot passengers pay $1 (50c for children) to use the Ōpua-Ōkiato car ferry. Granted, it's only a short hop, but you can't argue with the price. On the other side you can explore the site of New Zealand's first capital.

■ Get a kai
Ōpua has a cafe, a general store, a cruising club hosting regular social events, and a takeaway shop next to the ferry landing which does great pies, toasted sandwiches and fish and chips. Grab a kai and watch the boats go by from Ōpua wharf.

Hunter Kay encourages his jack russell Rosie during Ōpua's famous dog swimming race. Photo / Peter de Graaf
Hunter Kay encourages his jack russell Rosie during Ōpua's famous dog swimming race. Photo / Peter de Graaf

■ Dog swimming races
Ōpua's most unusual event was the annual dog-swimming race, traditionally held between a barge and the beach, but sadly scuttled by health and safety rules in 2018.

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