The Waitangi Day waka pageant is one of Northland's great spectacles. PHOTO / JOHN STONE
The biggest waka fleet seen in the Bay of Islands since 1990 will take part in a pageant marking the 175th anniversary of the Treaty of Waitangi next week.
About 20 waka are expected to take part in the February 6 spectacle including two Hawaiian va'a (ocean-going canoes) currently on a three-year, around-the world voyage, and the great waka Ngatokimatawhaorua.
When the waka land on Ti Beach (time to be confirmed) their crews perform a mass haka which rates as one of the most awe-inspiring, spine-tingling sights Northland has to offer.
Two days of fun
About 30,000 people are expected at the Waitangi Festival for two days of music, kai and culture.
Festivities start on February 5 with music and displays in the Treaty House courtyard, mau rakau demonstrations at the carved meeting house, Maori waka drills at Hobsons Beach in front of the waka shelter (2.30pm) and a Beat the Retreat ceremony and concert by the New Zealand Navy Band at the Treaty Grounds flagpole (4.45pm).
A free concert on the upper Treaty Grounds stage (entry via the Treaty House gates) will feature Tina Cross, JGeeks and Mika (6-7.30pm) with Georgina Beyer as the MC.
A packed programme on February 6 starts with a dawn ceremony at Te Whare Runanga (6am), flag raising (7am) and an interdenominational church service (9-10.30am), also at Te Whare Runanga.
The Royal NZ Navy band will perform kapa haka (11am) and a concert (11.30am) at the flagpole followed by a 21-gun salute at noon. The afternoon's performances at the upper stage will start with five-times national kapa haka champions Te Waka Huia (12.15pm) and continue until 6pm with covers bands, hip hop dancers, a brass band, more kapa haka and Ardijah (4.40pm). At 6.05pm kaihoe (waka paddlers) will perform a mass haka and karakia.
The sports field opposite the Treaty Grounds will host market stalls, entertainment and competitions at Ngati Hine's Life Over Everything youth stage all day; other events will take place at the waka stage by Hobsons Beach.
Te Tii Marae hosts its own market and a busy programme of debates and events on the field on the Paihia side of Waitangi Bridge.
Give it a go
Waitangi Day gets a bad rap in some quarters, especially on talkback radio. But most of the event's critics have never been, basing their impressions on TV coverage of protests in the 1980s.
The two-day festival is a surprisingly welcoming, inclusive and family-friendly event. If there is any aggro it's reserved for the polticians when they arrive at Te Tii Marae on February 5; the traditional hikoi with its forest of flags still makes it way from the marae to the flagpole around 1pm every February 6, but these days the mood is more festive than restive.
The only thing to bear in mind is that finding a parking spot can be difficult. Arrive early and be prepared to walk. Note also that Waitangi Bridge will close to traffic at 10am on Waitangi Day. If you haven't been before, give it a go. Bring sunblock and an open mind.
Free entry
Entry to the Treaty Grounds is free to New Zealanders from February 5-8 and to everyone, including international visitors, on Waitangi Day.
If you live in the area and want to come back another day, Far North residents can apply for a Friends of Waitangi card which costs $5 and is valid indefinitely.
The card gives year-round free admission to the grounds, free tours and shows and a discount at the cafe and shop. Bring ID and proof that you live in the Far North (for example, a bank statement with your address on it).
Bay stars in vlog
While we're still at Waitangi, the Treaty Grounds feature in a clip by British film-maker and YouTube personality Louis Cole, who is known for posting a daily "vlog" (video blog) about his travels.
His video, shot and uploaded last week, shows him receiving a traditional Maori welcome and checking out the great waka Ngatokimatawhaorua before he tries parasailing above the Bay and dune boarding at Te Paki.
It has already been viewed 160,000 times and can be seen on the FunForLouis YouTube channel (look for 'World's Highest Parasail'). FunForLouis has 1.1 million subscribers.
Folk concert
British contemporary folk band Other Roads is playing at Kerikeri's Pear Tree Restaurant this Friday, January 30. Members Gregor Borland, Pete Abbott and Dave Walmisley draw on backgrounds in Scotland, England and Africa to create a sound described as ranging from foot-stomping Celtic fiddle tunes to lilting ballads. The show starts at 7.30pm; door sales $20/$10.
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