Tastemakers on top (+ recipes)

Two common ingredients of desserts and bakes - cocoa and vanilla - have improved.
Not so long ago we had a choice of one cocoa for both cooking and drinking. And vanilla came in small bottles as "natural" or "imitation". Now we are spoilt for choice.
Cocoa powder is produced from cocoa beans that grow in pods on the tropical theobroma tree.
Once the beans are fermented, dried, roasted and hulled, the nibs are ground to extract between 50 and 75 per cent of the cocoa butter, leaving a thick brown chocolate liquor. This is dried, then ground into a powder known as unsweetened cocoa.
Dutch cocoa undergoes a further process to neutralise the acids, making it mellower in flavour and much darker. Because it is neutral and does not react with baking soda, Dutch cocoa should be used in recipes containing baking powder, unless there are other acidic ingredients in sufficient quantities.
The end results are affected by the colour of the cocoa powder and the fat content of the cocoa. Standard cocoa powders contain 10 to 20 per cent fat, while premium powders contain around 20 to 24 per cent.
As with cocoa, vanilla is also derived from dried, cured pods - this time pods from a member of the orchid family. True vanilla is expensive because it is labour-intensive, and the price varies depending on the quality of the beans used.
Tongan-produced Heilala Vanilla is the richest grade of vanilla in the Asia Pacific region. Besides vanilla beans, the company produces a strong vanilla extract or essence using a cold-extraction process, and a convenient vanilla paste.
Equagold vanilla - sourced from Tahiti - is another top-quality vanilla.
Imitation vanilla is made from artificial flavourings and has a harsh aftertaste. Twice as much is required to match the strength of pure vanilla extract. It is best used in bakes.
Recipes
VANILLA CUSTARD TARTS
The custard may be prepared in the microwave if preferred.
1/2 Heilala Vanilla pod, or 1 small vanilla pod, split lengthwise
1 cup milk
3 tbsp cornflour
3/4 cup sugar
6 egg yolks
3 sheets ready-rolled flaky pastry
Scrape the seeds from the vanilla pod.
Combine the milk, cornflour, sugar, vanilla pod and seeds in a saucepan. Cook, stirring constantly, until thick.
Whisk the egg yolks in a bowl. Slowly whisk in a little of the hot milk mixture,  then whisk back into the milk mixture in the saucepan.
Cook, stirring for  one to two minutes. Remove the vanilla pod.
Preheat the oven to 190C. Place an oven tray in to heat just above halfway.
Cut 12 rounds of pastry about 10-11cm in diameter.
Lightly oil a 12-hole muffin pan. Line the muffin cups with the pastry. Three-quarters fill with the custard.
Bake for 25-30 minutes, until the pastry is golden and the custard lightly browned on top. Makes 12.
OLD-FASHIONED DARK CHOCOLATE
225g Kremelta
2 cups icing sugar
1/2 cup milk powder
4 tbsp dark cocoa powder
2 tsp vanilla essence
1/2 cup mixed dried fruit or chopped nuts
Lightly grease an 18cm square pan.
Melt the Kremelta over low heat - do not overheat. Remove and sift in the icing sugar, milk powder and cocoa. Stir well.
Add the vanilla essence and stir until well-combined. Cool. Stir in the dried fruit or nuts. Pour into the pan and set in the refrigerator.
Cut into squares or bars when cold.
COCOA CHILLI CAKE
125g butter
1 tbsp treacle
2 cups plain flour
2 1/2 tsp baking powder
3 tbsp premium Dutch cocoa, eg Equagold
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup sugar
1-2 tbsp chilli paste or diced chilli
1 tsp vanilla paste
2 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 cups milk
Preheat the oven to 180C.
Lightly grease a 22-23cm round cake pan and line the base with baking paper.
Place the butter and treacle in a saucepan and heat gently, stirring until the butter is melted.
Sift the flour, baking powder and cocoa into a bowl. Add the eggs, sugar, chilli, vanilla paste and baking soda dissolved in the milk.
Beat for two minutes, then stir in the treacle and butter mixture. Pour into the prepared cake pan.
Bake for about 45 minutes or until a thin skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Stand for five minutes before inverting on to a wire rack to cool.
When cold, the cake can be iced with chocolate icing or cut horizontally through the centre and filled with sweetened cream cheese.
VANILLA FRENCH TOAST
Excellent served with bacon for brunch or lunch, or with berries for dessert.
1 1/4 cups cream
3 eggs
1 tsp vanilla paste
1 French stick
25g unsalted butter
1/2 cup vanilla syrup
Whisk the cream, eggs and vanilla paste well. Slice the bread into 2.5cm rounds. Arrange in a single layer in a wide, shallow casserole dish.
Pour the egg mixture over to cover evenly.
Refrigerate,  covered, overnight or for several hours.
Melt the butter in a non-stick frying pan.
Fry the rounds of  bread until golden on both sides.
Serve drizzled with a little vanilla syrup. Serves 6.