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Home / Northern Advocate / Lifestyle

Jetset winemaker in sparkling form

By Yvonne Lorkin
Northern Advocate·
16 Aug, 2011 06:00 PM5 mins to read

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You would think by now that I would have learned to say "no" to interviewing French champagne-makers in crowded restaurants.

To their credit, they've always had very good English, but because of my  lack of shorthand skills and industrial-grade deafness from years of leaping around in front of the blaring speakers at punk-rock gigs at nightclubs, I have to record the interview and transcribe it later.

These winemakers, however, are usually very softly spoken and, if you combine their gorgeously heavy accents with a nearby waitress hollering to the bar staff while clattering through her cutlery-polishing duties as jazz muzak blares in the background, then I've got a real problem.

Thankfully, Axelle Araud, winemaker for Champagne powerhouse Moet & Chandon, doesn't seem to mind that I've positioned my iPhone recorder as close to her as I can get without actually dropping it down her perfectly tailored and super-stylish shirt-front.

She is one of a team of 12 winemakers at Moet, and joined the company less than a year ago after spending time as a production manager for rival champagne house Pommery.

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"I am having such a great experience now," she says.

"It's the perfect position because I do 50 per cent winemaking and spend the rest of the time out in the vineyards assisting the team with blending, or travelling around the world educating people about our wines."

There are three women in the winemaking team and they are all super-busy, Araud says,  especially as ballooning markets in Asia demand more of their wines and their time.

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But these markets are still a huge challenge.

"The people in those countries are very interested in champagne but are less educated," she says.

"They are very fixated on bordeaux reds at the moment, so we are looking at ways to increase their knowledge and appreciation of the champagne style."

How does one become a member of the Moet & Chandon winemaking team? It's a super-competitive business, surely?

"My family has no connection with the wine industry but I loved biology, physics and maths at school so I decided to study agronomy engineering.

"Towards the end we had to choose a specialist option, and I chose winemaking. Before starting that option I did six months of training at Moet just to make sure I really wanted to work in the wine business."

When Araud  returned to school she kept in contact with the winemakers at Moet, which meant she was top-of-mind when a position arose in their team.

"It's a very small world the wine business and I believe it's important to maintain a good relationship with people in the industry as they can help you with your goals and your future."

When creating champagne, what is her favourite part?

"I love the energy in the winery just before we begin harvesting in mid-September. Everyone is so excited and there is so much anticipation.

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"I enjoy spending time out in the vineyards checking on the fruit and making sure things are all looking okay.

"It's the best time of year in Champagne I think.

"Usually the weather is beautiful before the harvest, which makes it a lovely time to be among the vines."

Moet is the largest winegrower in the Champagne region. "We have the advantage of having 1200ha of vineyards and we're able to access fruit from more than 200 different crus [vineyards] and 390 different villages, which is very important when it comes to maintaining consistency with our signature non-vintage wine.

"Every year the base wine will be different, so it's vital that we have a wide variety to choose from in order to create a consistent style."

We sample some pinot meunier base-wine sourced from the Vallee de la Marne area.

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"I think pinot meunier brings generosity, fruitiness and freshness to the mid-palate, it links the chardonnay and pinot noir together," Araud says.

"At between 30 to 40 per cent, we use more pinot meunier in our blend than other champagne producers. We think it is a very important component."

She then pours two different pinot noirs. One, from  the Cote des Bar sub-region,  offers red berry, plum and rhubarb notes.

The other, from the Grande-Vallee, has  bread crust and nutty flavours.

Finally, we sip a chardonnay sample from the Cote des Blancs in the east of the region and it's clear that it will add crisp minerality and citrus notes to the final blend, or "assemblage", for the Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial NV.

Hollywood actor  Scarlett Johansson is Moet's  spokeswoman. "We have been working with her since early 2010 and I love the new campaign," Araud says.

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"Scarlett is a very nice woman, very down to earth, yet sophisticated, young and energetic.

"I think she's a great fit for our brand and she's doing an excellent job."

I wonder if life  may just be too perfect for this young,  stylish jet-setting winemaker who hobnobs with Hollywood royalty, so I ask if anything's ever gone wrong on the job?

I want to know if this cucumber-cool mademoiselle has ever made a frightful faux pas while fashioning the famous fizz.

"Luckily, because I work as part of a team, I don't have to make any big decisions by myself," she says.

"A large team also means it's much easier to blame someone else."

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