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Home / Northern Advocate / Lifestyle

Jan Bilton: Flashes of brilliance on the grill (+recipes)

By Jan Bilton
NZME. regionals·
7 Nov, 2014 05:00 PM5 mins to read

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Barbecued fennel sausages with Spanish mojo.

Barbecued fennel sausages with Spanish mojo.

The barbecue is dead - long live the barbecue. As with most cuisines and cooking styles, everything goes in cycles. Barbecues fired us up in the 70s. Then, in the 80s and 90s innovation on the grill cooled. But now barbecuing is hot again.

In the barbecue capital of the world - the US - barbecue restaurants are mushrooming, magazines have appointed dedicated barbecue food writers and long established eateries are updating old favourites and enjoying increased patronage.

Many chefs are slow-cooking meat then flash grilling it to finish. Mixtures of dry spices called rubs have replaced the liquid marinades that tend to burn. Sensational saucy sauces are served on the side. Restaurant rules and regulations have seen the demise of the open-fire barbecue: gas barbecues have become the norm.

The term barbecue originated from the West Indian "barbacoa" method of slow-cooking meat over hot coals. Although southern Americans pride themselves on all things barbecue, new restaurants have sprung up all over including New York (BriskeTown), Oakland (B-Side BBQ), Detroit (Slow's Bar-B-Q), and Chicago (Green Street Smoked Meats).

I'm not aware of many dedicated barbecue establishments in New Zealand apart from Korean-style eateries and Wellington's Uncle Mike's Kansas City BBQ in Jackson St, Petone. Mike Oxley moved here five years ago from LA, where he ran a successful Kansas-style barbecue. His family-run Petone operation is booming and has won several favourable reviews from restaurant critics. Meats are slow-cooked from four to 12 hours, with ribs the favourite.

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Although barbecue recipes have become more complicated than a snag on the grill, Kiwis still love 'em. The recent New Zealand sausage competition provided winners from all over the country, with a beef and blue cheese sausage from Allenton Meat Centre in Ashburton scooping top award. Sausages have come a long way from plain pork.

Check out the amazing new combinations at your local butchers and supermarkets.

Barbecued fennel sausages with Spanish mojo

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I used gold medal winning sausages from Waikanae Butchery. Serve as tapas or as a main.
Spanish Mojo: 2 slices white bread, crusts removed
4-5 tbsp olive oil
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tsp chilli flakes
2 tsp each: cumin seeds, smoked paprika
2-4 tbsp sherry or balsamic vinegar
Sausages: 8 white wine and fennel sausages or another well-flavoured variety

*To make mojo (sauce), pan-fry bread on both sides in a little olive oil, until golden and crisp. Drain on paper towels. Chop into pieces.
*Place in a blender with garlic, chilli flakes, cumin seeds, smoked paprika and 2 tbsp of vinegar. Blend until smooth. Add extra olive oil and vinegar to taste.
*Prick sausages once with fork and place in frying pan. Cover with warm water. Slowly bring to a simmer. Poach sausages, turning occasionally, for 10 minutes. Cool, then remove skins. Cut each sausage into 4 or 5 pieces. Thread 3-5 pieces on to skewers.
*Brush with a little mojo. Barbecue on medium heat for about 5 minutes, turning often and brushing with a little more mojo. Serve when hot and sizzling. Extra mojo can be served on the side.
- Serves 4-6.

Eggplant-wrapped pork n' pesto

1 large eggplant
1 tsp fine salt
750g lean minced pork
1 each: egg, small onion, finely diced
Flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs
4-5 tbsp pesto
6-8 long stalks rosemary
Spray oil

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*Cut 6-8 long, thin slices of eggplant, place on paper towels, sprinkle with salt and stand for 20 minutes to soften eggplant.
*Combine pork, lightly beaten egg, onion, salt, pepper and breadcrumbs. Mix and form into 6-8 patties. Dent centre of each patty and insert a teaspoon of pesto. Cover with meat.
*Pat eggplant dry. Wrap around each patty and secure with a stalk of rosemary or small skewer. Spray liberally with oil and barbecue on a rack or on hot plate for about 4 minutes each side or until cooked. Great served on grilled ciabatta and topped with chutney.
- Serves 6.

Moroccan chicken sausage croissant

These flavoursome chipolata-sized sausies are another award winner, this time from Peter Timbs Meat in Christchurch.
6 croissants
6 Moroccan chicken chipolatas or similar
Spray rice bran oil
1 small avocado
Squeeze lemon juice
2 cups baby salad leaves
6-8 tbsp good tomato chutney

*Preheat oven to 180C. Cook croissants until crisp - about 8 minutes.
*Spray sausages with oil. Barbecue on medium heat for about 8 minutes, turning often, until cooked.
*Meanwhile, halve, stone, peel and slice avocado. Drizzle with a little lemon juice.
*Split croissants in half. Fill with salad leaves and avocado. Top each with a sausage, and a little chutney.
- Serves 6

for a barbecue lunch.

Rosemary lamb with dukkah

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750g boneless lamb leg steaks
Marinade: 3 tbsp each: lemon juice, olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tsp finely chopped rosemary leaves
Extras: 2 lemons, 3-4 tbsp dukkah, 1/2 cup white wine (optional)

*Trim any fat off lamb and cut each steak into three pieces. Place in plastic bag.
*Whisk marinade ingredients and pour over steaks. Marinate for at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
*Preheat a flat barbecue plate. Cook lamb for about 3 minutes on each side or to the desired degree of doneness.
*Halve lemons and brown on grill. Arrange lamb and lemons on a serving platter. Sprinkle with dukkah.
*Combine any remaining marinade with white wine and boil until syrupy, then serve with the lamb.
-Serves 4-6.

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