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Home / Northern Advocate / Lifestyle

Great southern land

Mike Yardley
Northern Advocate·
31 Jan, 2011 03:00 PM3 mins to read

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The Central Otago Rail Trail, widely hailed as New Zealand's greatest cycleway, needs little introduction. These days, the old railway tracks crawls with packs of Lycra-clad enthusiasts peddling their way through Otago's butter-coloured landscapes. If that sounds like too much toil, opt for a leisurely road trip through Otago's golden heart.
Heading northeast on SH85 from Alexandra, lose yourself in nature's warm embrace of wrinkled hills, gold-rush towns and bucolic landscapes as you traverse the Manuherikia Valley and the Maniototo Plain. There is still a sense of the wild frontier to Central Otago as you rumble through the region, stumbling upon historic roadside pubs that once served pioneering gold-miners, gazing across the broad back-country horizons and admiring the outcrops of Central Otago schist, stacked liked pancakes as if offered to the gods.
Some obligatory roadside stops include the settlements of Becks and Lauder, with their gold rush-era stone and timber pubs, and the village of Cambrians, which impresses passers-by with its lovingly preserved mud-brick buildings. Then it's on to the sprawling Maniototo Plain, a timeless land speckled with old stone fences, lonely cemeteries and rich vistas.
Lord of the Rings aficionados should take in Poolburn Reservoir, which they'll instantly recognise as the movie location for the village of Rohan. But the showpiece attraction would have to be the fairy-tale township of Naseby.
Huddled beneath the lofty Mt Isa range, Naseby's cheerfully painted historic shops and buildings would not look out of place at Disneyland. Only 100 people reside in this sleepy settlement, which is spectacularly awakened by the summer throng of holidaymakers.
Two of Central Otago's oldest pubs are located here, both built in 1863. The Ancient Briton is a gorgeous old stone establishment and just around the corner is the supremely photogenic wooden Royal Hotel. The elegant old post office now houses a great selection of local crafts and a useful information centre.
Naseby is also New Zealand's capital of curling, boasting a year-round indoor curling rink - the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. In the winter months, the ancient sport heads outdoors on to the sprawling ice rink, which neighbours the equally popular downhill luge.
If white-knuckle rides float your boat, I highly recommend you tackle the cloud-piercing road adventure of Danseys Pass. Beginning in Naseby, follow the signposts for a steep, twisting journey through the primitive alpine terrain linking Central Otago with the Waitaki District. The only notable beacon of civilisation along the way is the historic Danseys Pass Coaching Inn. Call in for a cuppa.

TOP TIPS
Ranfurly's leading lady, the Ranfurly Hotel, is what memorable stays are made of. Plus the spick-and-span guestrooms are bargain to boot.
For further information go to www.ranfurlyhotel.co.nz
For comprehensive touring and sightseeing information in Central Otago, check out the region's official visitor website at www.centralotagonz.com
Danseys Pass is not for the fainthearted. Most of the 60km road is unsealed and most rental car companies will not allow you to use it.

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