China: Wall-to-wall wonder

In China, we visit the world's most famous fence and the burial site of Ming emperors.
Chairman Mao once said: "He who has not climbed the Great Wall is not a true man." Well, who am I to question the wisdom of a now-mummified man? In fact, after recently exploring a chunk of this ancient fortification, I was left awestruck.
Slithering through the countryside and across Beijing's northern mountain slopes, the Great Wall of China, for all its fame, still exceeded my expectations.
Just an hour north of the bustling capital city, the two most popular sections are at Mutianyu and Badaling. The original wall was begun more than 2000 years ago, following China's unification under Emperor Qin Shihuang.
Despite the engineering prowess deployed, it never really fulfilled its primary function of keeping the barbarians at bay. Genghis Khan proved that.
Over the centuries, subsequent additions and design changes failed to achieve the objective of providing an impenetrable line of defence. But it has proven to be a modern-day money-spinning bonanza, as millions flock every year to admire the wall's history, artistry and sweeping mountain vistas.
Badaling, at an elevation of 1000m, offers striking scenery and swelling crowds. President Nixon paid a visit to this section in 1972. At an even higher elevation, with fewer camera-toting tourists to contend with and the option of a cable car to spare your calves, Mutianyu is a more pleasurable experience. Enhanced with Ming-dynasty guard towers and panoramic views, Mutianyu left President Clinton spellbound. Me too. You can even descend from the Great Wall on a toboggan to round off the experience.
An excellent side trip on the way back to Beijing is the Ming Tombs, the ornate burial site of most Ming emperors. En route, the winding roads snake through sleepy Chinese villages, where the pace of life has not yet been awakened by China's economic boom. The site of the Ming Tombs was originally selected because of its perfect feng shui layout, with a ridge of mountains cradling the tombs. This serenely salubrious spot is furnished with traditional Confucian carvings and memorials. The long promenade approach to the tombs, the Spirit Way, is graciously flanked with statues of soldiers, animals and mythical beasts. Don't let your coach driver deny you the chance to size up these splendid figures.
A number of tombs have been excavated and the tomb of the longest-reigning Ming emperor, Ding Ling, enables you to explore the underground vault, complete with marble locking doors. The burial place of the Emperor Yongle is particularly impressive, featuring a multi-tiered marble terrace from which you enter the Hall of Eminent Favours and its imposing interior of cedar-wood columns. China's ancient craftsmanship, whether it be showcased by walls or temples, is second-to-none.