Bangkok's balancing act

A monk in bright orange robes whips out a cellphone and begins texting, while across the street a woman dressed in a burqa swiftly passes the entrance to a strip club. Welcome to Bangkok.
This city of over seven million people is one giant clash of East and West, old and new. But somewhere in the chaos the inhabitants of Bangkok find a kind of harmony, combining Thai traditions with modern movements. Huge shopping malls rise up beside rusty shacks along the Chao Phraya River and Buddhist temples flank banks and office buildings.
Nowhere is this balancing act more obvious than in the lives of local residents, who wai (bow in prayer) to the numerous temples on their way to work in the shiny skyscrapers that make up the city's skyline.
"We incorporate our culture, our traditions, in our everyday life," says Kunchalee Viriya-Ampanond, the public relations director of one of the city's most prestigious hotels, The Peninsula Bangkok.
Located on the Chao Phraya River, The Peninsula might appear the epitome of Western luxury, but Kunchalee reveals the Thai influence that seeps into any foreign endeavour in Bangkok. Here, in the bustling business hub of the city, you can take Thai cooking classes, learn the patient Thai art of fruit carving or take a course on the history of Thai massage.
"One of our restaurants is completely traditional Thai style; we even relocated the 70-year-old main house from the ancient capital Ayuttaya and built the restaurant around that style," Kunchalee explains.
While Thai food isn't going out of fashion anytime soon, other elements of Thai culture are still holding strong, despite the massive number of tourists flowing through Bangkok each year. At most residences and even the most modern of hotels, a small Buddhist shrine is displayed at the front gate, paying homage to spirits of the previous tenants of that land and showing a powerful connection to the past.
Even in the high-flying world Kunchalee lives in, she represents a generation determined not to forget its roots. "I value my country and my culture," she says. "Our history and our language is very unique."
Kunchalee humbly admits that she herself is one of only about 200 people in Thailand who can play the traditional Thai string instrument, Sow-Sam-Sai. "I fell in love with that instrument. It's really difficult to learn, but it's a beautiful sound."
Clearly, if the PR director of one of the most glamorous hotels in the city can find time to appreciate an ancient skill, then the scales of this particular balancing act are tipped in Thailand's favour.
Where to stay
If you want to combine old Bangkok charm with new Bangkok luxury, check into The Peninsula, www.peninsula.com. If you are on a tighter budget, check out the Sukhumvit area for conveniently located hotels and try to stay near a sky train station.

How to get there

The cheapest option is usually a flight across the ditch first, where Qantas operates flights, and often specials, to Bangkok. See www.qantas.com.au
Kate Roff travelled to Bangkok with the assistance of Qantas and The Peninsula.