Pacifica owners and couple Natalie Bulman and Jeremy Rameka are leaving Napier. Photo / Paul Taylor
Pacifica, arguably Hawke’s Bay’s top restaurant, has served its last dish after more than 20 years – leaving behind a legacy in the country’s culinary scene.
The owners, head chef Jeremy Rameka and sommelier Natalie Bulman, are relocating to King Country, where Rameka grew up and where they plan to open a new six-seat restaurant.
Pacifica has won a long list of accolades over the years, including New Zealand’s best overall restaurant in 2017 at the Cuisine Good Food Awards.
In recent years, it has been the region’s only three-hatted restaurant, although Craggy Range (near Havelock North) reached that pinnacle on Monday when it was awarded a three-hat status.
Pacifica’s iconic blue bungalow on Marine Parade is now up for lease.
Rameka said they had been considering opening a smaller restaurant for years in his hometown, and the time was right with the lease ending.
He said he was “extremely” proud of his time at Pacifica and the staff he’d worked alongside.
“It hasn’t sunken in for me, because once I leave the Bay, I think that is when it will sink in.”
He said part of their decision to move on was starting something new.
“I still want to enjoy what I do. Having a restaurant, it takes its toll,” he said.
“It is time to move on and start afresh.”
Over the years, his cooking has won high praise from customers and critics, with a major highlight being named New Zealand’s best restaurant in 2017.
The phone wouldn’t stop ringing with bookings the day after they won that top accolade, something Rameka joked was as much a curse as a blessing.
Reflecting on the journey, a difficult period in Rameka’s life, which included a divorce, proved a pivotal time at the restaurant in its earlier years.
Rameka said it was “hard to put your heart on a plate”, but that changed the way he operated.
“That was about the time things changed,” he said, of the restaurant striking more of a chord.
“It changed the mindset.
“I think, like anything, when your back is up against the wall you either crumble or [respond].”
Rameka said he was looking forward to moving back to his hometown, Kākahi, near Taumarunui, and opening a smaller restaurant with his partner.
The restaurant, which is currently under construction, will be on the same property as their home.
“It will be a six-seater restaurant, so six people only.
“It is something we have wanted to do since about 10 years ago.”
He said the goal was to open by the end of October, and they would name the new restaurant Ni.
Ni means “us” or “we” in Welsh, which is where Natalie hails from.
Bulman said it had been an extremely busy period – in a good way – leading up to the restaurant’s closure, with a lot of familiar faces coming through.
Bulman is a highly respected sommelier and said she’d loved her time in Hawke’s Bay, learning about the region’s wines and sharing them with customers.
“I always say the wines are like the backup singers,” she said.
“It is magical when it worked, when a wine helped the dish sing.
“But it’s not the main event. My aim was not to make the wine the focus.”
Bulman said she would certainly take some Hawke’s Bay wines to their new restaurant.
She said winning awards was not their focus in opening Ni.
“We want it to be as honest as possible, and if that means it is not what people expect, and not what wins awards, it doesn’t matter.
“We want it to be as real and honest and us as possible.”
The couple gave a huge thank you to all their guests, staff, suppliers, family and friends who supported them.
Cuisine Good Food Awards lead assessor Kerry Tyack said Pacifica had become a standout in New Zealand’s restaurant industry.
“Jeremy possesses a remarkable talent for elevating ingredients.
“I vividly remember a dish he crafted using a humble brown onion.
“I’ve tasted hundreds of onion dishes over the years, but that one stood out.
“It remains the finest onion dish I’ve ever eaten.
“Over time, the restaurant’s atmosphere evolved into something deeply personal – like stepping into someone’s home kitchen.
“It was simple, unmistakably Kiwi, and unmistakably Jeremy.
“I’m eager to see what he does next.”
Pacifica opened its doors about 2003 and Rameka purchased it in 2006.
Gary Hamilton-Irvine is a Hawke’s Bay-based reporter who covers a range of news topics including business, councils, breaking news and cyclone recovery. He formerly worked at News Corp Australia.