Hawke's Bay adventure: Close-up gander at gannets

ELEGANT: Australasian Gannets have beautiful markings and weigh up to 2kg. HBT134086-9

On land they look like they've had a few too many. But in the air they are graceful and streamlined. As expert flyers I have seen them performing spectacular high dives into the sea in Hawke Bay to catch fish. Nesting on Cape Kidnappers over summer, the first chicks hatch in early November and the last chicks depart the colony for Australia during May. They are the Australasian Gannet - a member of the booby family and a beloved Hawke's Bay tourism icon.

Not being an ardent bird lover and knowing little about one of Hawke's Bay tourism's must dos, I set off to find out a little more about this elegant creature.

They live on a headland at the southeastern extremity of Hawke Bay at the end of an 8km peninsula that protrudes into the Pacific Ocean, 20km south-east of Napier. Access to the Cape by road stops at Clifton, which is the departure point for many tourists.

Over 40 years ago a request was made by visitors to run trips to see the Gannets by driving overland on Cape Kidnappers Station farm. The owners at the time saw an opportunity to unite with the then Hawke's Bay Bus Company and using ex-army trucks as transport, the company now known as Gannet Safaris Overland was born.

As a summer chorus of cicadas chirped away I was greeted at the depot by Jo Speedy, a gregarious veteran tour guide driver with more than 14 years experience. Formally a farmer on a coastal property at Herbertville in Southern Hawke's Bay, Jo has traded farm work to herd tourists around the largest and most accessible gannet colony in the world.

On any other day the 10-seater mini bus would normally be full, but today is unusually quiet with two German tourists, myself and Jo on board. The company have buses for bigger groups and smaller 4-wheel-drive luxury vehicles.

Near the start of the trip the sealed road runs through a hot, stoney river valley which a few thousand years ago used to be the Mohaka River. Jo explains the land lifted and the river moved north: "I get visibly excited geologists and miners too," she says. In geological terms, the land is very young and there are many interesting rock formations for them here.

A rolling grassland plateau punctuated with earthquake influenced valleys is known as "The Farm". 2000 hectares of sheep and beef has recently added diversification into pine production. It is also home to The Lodge and the Cape Kidnappers Golf Course designed by Tom Doak, funded by American developer Julian Robertson and is ranked 33 in the world. No mean feat.

As we swap the seal for a gravel road Jo stops beside the farm woolshed which is more than 100 years old. Sheep waiting in a yard to be shorn gives Jo the opportunity to describe the shearing process to her eager tourists. They nod their heads in understanding as one translates the information. Wide enquiring eyes dart round the environment, followed with swift well rehearsed camera shutter clicks. Ooooh. Aaaaah.

Jo is amazed many overseas tourists have never seen sheep and cattle in a farming situation and feels privileged to be able to point out typical New Zealand farming techniques. She is quietly amused that they find it strange for dogs to round up sheep.

We ease past a tight corner on a narrow ridgeline 250m above the sea on one side and a rocky cliff on the other the farmers have named Bank Manager's corner. Nearing the colony Jo points out a small pond where a pair of Pied Stilts bob their heads looking for food. Jo's humour comes to the fore describing the stilts as resplendent in their red legged stockings, bought from Harrods, of course. She adds: "A very naughty teal met a very naughty mallard and we now have a meal or a tallard."

You can smell the birds well before you see them. The bird's guano produces a pungent odour that hangs in the air. But it is all well worth it when around the corner 7000 birds come into view. In high season the number can easily double or triple. It's a very unusual sight. Gannets sitting out in the middle of a paddock against a cliff. Gannets have no natural predators, so they feel safe to lay their eggs in the open. Parents mate for life and both can fly a round trip of over 400km to get fish for their baby. They live on average 25-35 years but there has been a documented pair who celebrated their golden wedding, more than 50 years.

The adults on average weigh 2kg and the parents feed their babies so much they can weigh up to 3kgs. December, January, February is a good time to see chicks in the nest. The babies I photographed were about 10 days old and poke their small heads out from under the feathery protection of a parent. They impatiently wait, squawking for food, one parent on a continual trip on the supermarket food run.

The cape is home to the largest and most accessible gannet colony in the world. The 13 hectare reserve includes the Saddle and Black Reef gannet colonies. Both are closed to public access, but you can view the Black Reef colony from the beach. The population is growing by 2 per cent every year and they are typical young New Zealanders in that as soon as they can fly they head off to Australia. Most come back but some stay on. That is why they are known as Australasian gannets. Adult Australasian gannets have a wing span of up to two metres and an average weight of two kilograms.

Jo describes them aptly: "In the air they have to be one of the most elegant of sea birds, if not the most."

They are impressive. I duck as one comes close by me to land, not worried about gawking tourists. The plumage is a brilliant yellowy white, smooth and manicured. The massive wings are tipped in black, matching sharp feet. The beak and eyes look like they are lined with mascara. The rounded head is tinged in yellow.

They are elegant and classy, dressed for the ball.

It's a busy time of the year for Jo. Sometimes she can be driving twice a day. Never short for an opinion, Jo is passionate about her environment and quick to promote it.

Jo is a member of Forest and Bird, a former member of Mountain Safety Council and although not a fanatical conservationist (by her own admission), she feels solar power should be more accessible to New Zealanders, especially in Hawke's Bay where we get plenty of sunshine.

"I worry about losing our wildlife and though reluctant to say it, the animals we have introduced over the years have had a huge negative impact," she says. "I love our native trees and the older one gets the more one appreciates our environment - but we love our modern appliances too!"

Why does she do it?

"The variation. Being out here with this scenery. One of the best things about this job is that it is a very happy, positive thing to do. People are on holiday and relaxed, at their best. They want to be here and so do I."

There must be something she does not like about the role. I probe for a telling truth, but her positivity shines through.

"There is absolutely nothing I don't like about my job," she says, adding quickly, 'Well, I'm not mad about coming out when it's pouring with rain. The bus starts slipping on the wet track, but that's about it.

"It's a dream job, I have a lot of people asking me do we need more drivers? I refer them to head office," she laughs.

"I love being able to boast about New Zealand. We are totally privileged to be New Zealanders who live in this beautiful country. In Hawke's Bay we have the equivalent quality of the South Island's scenery but it's very different, especially these coastal farms. Open grassland, forest, gullies, the newest geological structure. It's full of history, pa sites and Maori dwelling evidence.

"That sort of thing is very interesting for me because when we were at Herbertville, we had huge sandhills and every time there was a storm we would get Moa bones coming up."

Any plans for retirement? Definitely not.

"I never thought I would end up being a bus driver." Jo laughs adding: "It's the best job in the world, I just love it. I will do this until I'm too dithery to drive. I am indeed lucky."

And I would have to agree with that.