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Home / Hawkes Bay Today

Editorial: Restaurants shouldn't shun critique

By Mark Story
Hawkes Bay Today·
22 Aug, 2019 06:00 PM2 mins to read

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Restaurateurs should worry about their food, not reviews, writes Mark Story. Photo / File

Restaurateurs should worry about their food, not reviews, writes Mark Story. Photo / File

"If you don't like our food or service, tell us, not others."

Who remembers this once common edict on restaurant walls?

Strangely, such insular mentality still exists in modern-day hospitality.

Local woman Marianne Gannaway gave Napier's Ajuna cafe a 3-star review online recently. Her moderate comments alleged price hikes on vegetarian lasagne and an apparent fly "issue", yet she applauded "the best" coffee.

The owner politely replied online to redress the pricing concerns - yet banned her when she returned.

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Undoubtedly, the cafe's response was entirely disproportionate.

For the past couple of decades our hospo industry has enjoyed both success and a demonstrable maturity. An enthusiastic foodie, I'm proud of its stellar plates, chefs and homegrown produce.

But a self-consciousness remains.

Sure, social media is a free-for-all window for axe grinders and those prone to histrionics. Yet Gannaway's feedback didn't fit this category.

I've reviewed numerous eateries in my time as a scribe in the region. It was an eye-opener as to the fragility of many in the industry. Any unfavourable review was dismissed as I wasn't an "expert" (nor are the majority of your diners) - I was even told off by a chef for complimenting his food.

Anthony Bourdain's seminal 2000 novel Kitchen Confidential sexed up the cooking scene. Perhaps that, and the burgeoning TV and literary foodie genre, had led some in the industry to deify themselves to the point they're beyond reproach.

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It's important to note too that the shift from food to "cuisine" at home has rendered everyone an expert. So, in that sense, professionals' frustration at the hike in online cheap shots is understandable.

Let's also remember that reviewers wield great power; they risk very little compared with those they're reviewing.

Still, in response to the Ajuna fracas, Restaurant Association of New Zealand chief executive Marisa Bidois suggested customers talk face to face with the eatery if not satisfied.

Like the outdated edict above, this suggestion lacks confidence and shuns transparency.

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My advice to those in the industry who seek to censure critique?

Your plates speak louder than any review. Focus on your food and the truth will prevail.

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