Editorial: Put your wine on the line

Certain vintner no-shows at awards disappoints, writes Mark Story. Photo/File

A Rolls-Royce apparently, needn't race.

And accordingly, witness the absence of some of our flagship wineries from the entry list in this year's Hawke's Bay A&P Bayleys Wine Awards.

Too cool for school? Stature on the line? Pedigree in peril? Marketing muscle at risk?

For some years certain notable wineries have exercised their choice not to compete in the oldest regional wine contest in the country.

To say I deem that snub as highly displeasing, would be about right.

As a wine drinker I'd describe it as elitist on the nose, with a fusing of haughty and risk-averse undertones and a long, condescending finish.

Back when I was a kid, even the best All Blacks trialled. Despite the risk to reputation, they entered the Colosseum, proved their worth and lifted the bar.

How nice it'd be if the local superstars shared the same sense of collegial responsibility to this wonderful region.

As an example to everyone, this year's welcome exception was Clearview, which entered its flagship chardonnay Endeavour (one of the most expensive in the country) at said awards and triumphed.

As a wine enthusiast eloquently told me this week, the move had "guts and glory written all over it". Bang on. Bravo Clearview for showing some stones.

These awards would resonate even louder with a narrative that read as an inclusive, collective celebration of appellation.

So come on, big boys, you know who you are, either pee or get off the pot.

Because from where I'm sipping, the only thing more pointless than racing a Rolls is leaving it in the shed.