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Home / Hawkes Bay Today

Editorial: High-brow chow low on reality

Mark Story
Hawkes Bay Today·
4 Sep, 2014 09:00 PM2 mins to read

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Hawke's Bay's Daniel Freeman is one of the contestants from My Kitchen Rules New Zealand. Photo / Glenn Taylor

Hawke's Bay's Daniel Freeman is one of the contestants from My Kitchen Rules New Zealand. Photo / Glenn Taylor

For breakfast it was a New York cut of home-kill liver.

Lunch consisted of green beans with duck eggs.

Dinner, a mystery portion of sheep.

As a lad, the menu for weekends at friends' farms didn't stray too far from said fare.

In about the same pre-teen '80s era, there was a similar food uniformity at adult parties. Beer was from crates or glass flagons, in draught persuasion only.

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Wines were of the "smooth" varietal, liebestraum, muller thurgau and company, in room-temperature casks. Us kids would kick the empty bladders across the lawn.

The only food event close to pretentious nosh was the wine-and-cheese. But even here, highly processed "fromage" was deep orange and smoked, served on hefty crackers with the above wines.

Since then, we've seen food's gentrification.

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Great things have flowed from it - variety, seasonality, seasoning, awareness and pride of provenance.

It happened swiftly. Like a Rip Van Winkle moment I fell asleep and woke to find food renamed cuisine, and farmers redubbed artisans.

While most chapters of the culinary revolution I welcome, there's, of course, an underbelly.

Witness Wednesday night's My Kitchen Rules.

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Despite being an avid cook myself, these awkward, puerile TV shows give me an appetite for a fatty slab of mutton served with a side of duck eggs and warm glass of muller thurgau. Fine food in these staged contexts, is plated for the wrong reasons.

The non-affected generation before me had it sussed: simple food, good company. The quest to impress with high-brow chow is a genuine threat to the humble dinner party.

The downside of the domestic gentrification of food is that it's been matched with a type of culinary status anxiety.

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