Craggy Range Dairy’s halloumi cheese a winning bolter for a reason

The Craggy Range Dairy crew are Pal the heading dog (from left), farm manager Alice MacKeith, owner Kate Clairmont, cheesemaker Jess Robin and owner James Clairmont. Photo / Mark Story

Home cook and deputy editor Mark Story has an appetite for our rising food products. He chats with Craggy Range Dairy’s boutique cheesemakers Kate and James Clairmont, before blistering some award-winning halloumi.

You were cheesemaking on Waiheke Island – why the move to the Bay?

We began our cheese journey on Waiheke 16 years ago, milking three ewes by hand and playing around with the milk in the kitchen. We soon fell in love with sheep milk and could really see the benefits of the quality of the milk and the cheese.

We made the move to Hawke’s Bay nine years ago to be nearer family and because the region is ideal for artisan producers. We are an independent, boutique family farm on the foothills of the Craggy Range itself. We practice ethical, bio-dynamic farming (no synthetic fertilisers, GMO-free) milking sheep and producing our cheese in our own factory right here on farm, whilst also bringing in cow milk from our friend’s farm in Takapau to produce our cow range for when our sheep are on holiday.

What are the three least-known facts about sheep dairying?

1. The environmental impact of sheep dairying compared with cow is significant. Testing on the effluent from our milking shed has shown 10 times less nitrogen than that of an equivalent cow dairy, which means it is a much gentler farming system.

2. A sheep produces a lot less milk than a cow but the yield is two to three times more – so you get at least twice as much cheese per litre of milk.

3. Sheep-dairying models like ours can operate with animal ethics at front of mind. Ewes get to keep their lambs at birth, they are weaned later at about 2 months old, when the ewe then milks once a day only for us. This ethical system allows for much happy and healthier lambs and ewes.

As cheesemakers in a country relatively new to the industry, is there a temptation to deviate from Old-World European cheeses and produce a style all of your own?

We really focus on making cheese our customers want.

Many people are familiar with classic sheep cheeses like pecorino and manchego so we have become renowned for producing and perfecting NZ versions of these.

Now we have our own factory though, yes, we can also be more inventive and play with recipes to create new cheeses; for example, our new Chilli Cow Camembert adds interest to a plain camembert.

Craggy Range Dairy's cow milk halloumi won the new-cheese category at the 2026 New Zealand Cheese Awards. Photo / Mark Story

Humans are the only species on the planet to eat dairy post-infancy. Some nutritionists suggest that’s why we shouldn’t consume it.

There are also many nutritionists who value real milk as part of a well-balanced diet.

We love, and are very proud of the fact, that sheep milk contains almost twice as much calcium and protein as cow milk; is more suitable for those lactose intolerant and all A2 so easier to digest; as well as naturally homogenised so less processed.

What’s your favourite way to eat your award-winning cow halloumi?

Simply fried in a hot pan and accompanied by another fantastic Hawke’s Bay local product such as a Maison Therese chutney or Arataki chilli honey – love keeping it local all the way.

What’s the biggest cheesemaking myth?

That Europeans make the best cheese.

New Zealand-made cheeses are incredible. Our pasture-fed farming produces the best-quality milk and fabulous cheeses rivalling the very best in the world.

The holy trinity of sourdough, grilled halloumi and pickled onion. Photo / Mark Story

Mark Story’s Review: Craggy Range Dairy cow-milk halloumi. $10.30, 150g.

Highly recommend trying it first raw, then cooked.

Uncooked, it’s surprisingly mozzarella-like, yet drier, saltier and (obviously) squeaky.

But let’s not kid ourselves. Halloumi’s born to be blistered.

Colouring it under a grill added sweetness and a nice chew.

It’s not loud cheese but it’s undeniably moreish. Unstoppable atop sourdough with pickled onion.

* Do you know of a rising Hawke’s Bay food or beverage product worth a profile? Contact mark.story@hbtoday.co.nz